The FW23 trends according to Hilde Francq

How will the ongoing stream of bad news impact color and lifestyle trends for winter 2022-23? FashionUnited captured trend watcher Hilde Francq’s predictions during the semi-annual Color Trend Webinar.

The last time the seminar could take place live was in 2019 and with this event the organization ties in with the recently renovated MoMu Antwerp as the venue. Hilde Francq looks ahead to winter 2023/2024. As always, she links four sociological tendencies with future lifestyle trends. Each theme conveyed through two color palettes and specific material and texture settings.

Not only the last two years have been a constant string of bad news. Since the beginning of this millennium, the negative news has been piling up: 9/11, global warming, attacks in Paris and Brussels… up to the pandemic and the war in Ukraine. It is inevitable that sooner or later these events will have an impact on everyone’s lifestyle.

melancholy and hope

The first theme shows an emotional reaction to all the anger, full of melancholy. There is no certainty anymore, nothing lasts forever. The future may seem more uncertain than ever, but at the same time we hope for a brighter future. This featured trend focuses on the latter: hope for light in the dark; symbolized by the color blue. The element water – in all its forms – stands for changeability. In fashion, therefore, we see wavy materials and flowing forms that refer to ice and water. The icy nature of this trend is already apparent in Balenciaga’s next winter show, which saw the models trudge through a harsh snowstorm. ‘Le Bleu’, Jacquemus’ pop-up at Selfridges in London, was also all about blue and water.

FW22 Collection by Balenciaga. Image: CatwalkPictures

A world without borders

A second theme rejects all borders because they only cause problems. All boundaries are abolished: between genders, age, the digital and analogue world, but also between disciplines – architects, for example, will design fashion. However, there is still evidence of what is known. Vintage floral motifs for men’s jackets could be seen at Louis Vuitton: nostalgia with an eye to the future. Extremes are also always being explored, such as the ultra-short mini skirts by Miu Miu or the ultra-inclusive fashion label Ester Manas. When it comes to shopping, there is no longer a hard line between online and offline. The flagship of Acne Studios in Stockholm thus combines digital technology with the experience of art.

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Louis Vuitton FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com

Technology saves the climate

Sustainability has become mainstream. This third theme uses technological innovation to save the planet. Ecology and technology merge. Regenerative ecosystems that renew their own energy sources or repair materials become important. Sustainability is given a new aesthetic, away from the hippie look. Alternatives to leather – such as lab grown leather or grape leather – are becoming more sophisticated and offer the quality that the luxury segment is looking for. Another example is 3D printed pieces, like in Loewe’s winter collection. 3D printing combines efficiency with creativity: objects can be printed in the desired size and exactly as required.

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Loewe FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com

Radical minimalism

The fourth theme shows our aversion to digital sensory overload and overconsumption. People go to extremes to stop consuming and destimulate themselves. You choose radical minimalism. Everything is reduced to the essentials. The designs are often sober, made of pure and refined materials with well-designed but essential details. There are many archetypal garments in fashion, such as the iconic Burberry trench coat or the luxurious minimalism of Loro Piana. Color is certainly possible, but in large, generous portions. Tonal colors are used for their calming effect. Superfluous stimuli such as additional colors and contrasts are filtered out.

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Chloe FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com

This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ.

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