Rebellion coupled with feminism has always been a part of fashion. This is regularly evident when designers cite feminist statements, whether on the catwalk in the form of protests – think Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel S/S15 show – or in the form of statements in the clothes themselves – as in printed ones T-shirts with feminist slogans.
Over time, the aesthetic of feminism in fashion has evolved and fashion houses are beginning to explore new ways of representing female empowerment. The collections for autumn/winter 23 therefore had very different approaches. Some collections referenced feminist classics like the power suit, while others looked to the power of lingerie to celebrate the female body and its empowerment.
Patricia Maeda, Director of Womenswear at Fashion Snoops, assesses these new trends in an interview with FashionUnited: “With social media providing real-time access to the latest products and micro-movements, today’s fashion trends are much broader – and changing faster than earlier. While there is room for all of these different trends to coexist, it has become clear that the top decision-making level of fashion houses today has a strong sense of who their customers are and what they are buying. That’s why they deliver the trends in a brand-appropriate look, which can ultimately take on a different aesthetic.”
Witches rule
Over the past year, the connection between witchcraft and feminism has taken on fashionably new forms as witches have risen to become the ultimate “modern feminists.” Kickstarted by a slew of new films and books on the subject, the shift eventually trickled down to the fashion world, initially impacting collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season – such as Versace’s black widow look. The gothic aesthetic continued into the FW23 collections, as labels like Aniye Records and Acne Studios presented equally provocative looks – often adorned with symbols such as crosses or flames. This trend was largely driven by former dominatrix and actress Julia Fox, who has become something of a poster child for the look.
And it seems we can expect even more of the occult in the coming season, as suggested by Deutsches Mode-Institut trend researcher Carl Tillessen. during his trend presentation Tillessen noticed a change in the muses of the design houses, who “send not only angels but also fallen angels onto the catwalk”. He added that people are once again able to admit their moral ambivalences, noting, “It’s about uncensored and uninhibited, advanced sex.”
Lingerie becomes outerwear
While the place of lingerie in the everyday wardrobe isn’t exactly new, the increased use of lingerie in runway collections suggests that the way the fashion world views these garments has changed. In the eyes of fashion designers, showing skin is a form of body positivity and self-love. The female figure is underlined, which can also be seen as a reaction to the Y2K trend that has dominated the industry in recent years. One of the proponents of this trend is LVMH award winner Nensi Dojaka, whose lingerie-like ready-to-wear has garnered her industry hype. Speaking to trade magazine WWD, Dojaka said showing the body started out as a trend and then became a statement of empowerment and making the female body ‘acceptable’ rather than either fear [vor seinem Anblick] to have, or to sexualize him.
Compared to other forms of feminism on the catwalk, the lingerie trend shows a slightly softer interpretation of the concept, which is characterized in part by pastel colors and light materials such as chiffon or lace. Maeda of Fashion Snoops states, “The move towards a more feminine and softer aesthetic reflects a growing desire to break away from rigid patriarchal structures and take a softer approach. In contemporary society [in den USA], in which women’s bodily autonomy is restricted and punished, the return to femininity becomes an important act of emancipation. In this culture, clothing can reveal important parts of the experience of female identity, from the empowering representation of the body through layering to the reclaiming of sexualized body parts with the help of the exposed lingerie.”
Power Suits return – but more subtle
Initially, the Power Suit was designed for women who had to assert themselves in a male-dominated (work) environment. The two-piece was marketed as a look needed by every woman entering the labor market and needing to demonstrate her raison d’être throughout the 20th century. Today, the meaning of the suit has changed dramatically with the demands of the current times. The boundaries of its meaning become blurred and it becomes less and less a symbol of power. The resurgence of the suit trend goes hand in hand with that Quiet luxury trend, which has conquered fashion in recent months. It’s an aesthetic defined by subtle, understated labels that are entirely logoless, yet epitomize high quality.
The trend researcher Hilde Franq referred in her Trend lecture for SS24 in which she linked the return of “real luxury” to the current unstable climate as people reflect on the security of the past in a turbulent time. For Franq, in the coming season this will translate into a subtle and refined luxury, achieved through high quality finishes and details. An indication of this could already be seen during the fall/winter 2023 collections in the form of tailoring, the cuts of which were modernized while still showing references to the past. While Alexander McQueen presented elegant two-piece suits with pinstripes, Balmain’s look reflected the suiting of the 80s with clear silhouettes.
Barbie continues her reign
Barbie’s place in feminism is a highly contentious issue. However, many believe the doll could be labeled a “feminist icon.” The arguments in her favor tend to focus on the sense of empowerment she instills in young children – often girls – and her ability to inspire them to pursue a variety of careers. Barbie’s popularity was further fueled last year when it was announced that acclaimed director Greta Gerwig would direct a film based on the Mattel creation. She solved one Wave of Barbie pink fashion trends that became known as ‘Barbiecore’. The film will finally hit the cinemas in July and, as expected, the hype surrounding the iconic figure will not die down anytime soon. Versace’s latest cruise collection with Dua Lipa, which featured luscious hair and fun prints, also had hints of barbiecore.
This article was published on http://FashionUnited.com. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ