To achieve mastery in a profession, experience and passion are essential. Patricia Beurskens, Hunkemöller’s design director, combines both. In her 15 years with the esteemed lingerie brand, she has dedicated herself completely to the brand, shaping and maintaining its feminine, confident identity. Her cheerful spirit has become an integral part of the company headquarters. FashionUnited spoke to her about her vision for modern lingerie and her personal journey as a designer.
“That’s it – wonderful, that’s exactly what I always wanted”
“I’ve been working at Hunkemöller for 15 years now and I can’t believe it myself,” Beurskens reflects. While studying at the Art Academy in Arnhem, she stumbled across the world of lingerie quite by accident. “I’ve always been into painting and drawing women’s bodies and into art history I learned a lot about lingerie. It all unconsciously came together until I suddenly realized: That’s it – wonderful, that’s exactly what I always wanted. That feeling has stayed with me to this day.”
After graduating, she did an internship at an exclusive lingerie brand and stayed there for a while. “This field is so specific that only a few specialize in it. I find the conceptual approach I learned in Arnhem particularly fascinating. Of course, there are also technically oriented, prestigious lingerie courses. But the conceptual, the creative, that’s what particularly appeals to me.” Hunkemöller recognized her talent and brought her into the team as a junior designer. After a short detour to Bijenkorf, she returned in a managerial position. “I’m always looking for more. That was also the reason why I turned to fashion. But that’s when I realized: My heart beats for lingerie.”
Creative experimentation and a critical look
When Beurskens returned to Hunkemöller as chief designer, the brand had around 300 stores. There was plenty of room for creative development. “I found it exciting that we were able to develop our ideas in such depth,” she says enthusiastically. “Since then, I have strived to maintain the unmistakable Hunkemöller signature in all product lines, from luxury nightwear to swimwear and sportswear. And with each one experiment, we understand better and better how we can translate the essence of the brand into authentic design.”
This also meant that some trendy designs ended up in the trash. “In the past there were designs that were so different from our DNA that they just didn’t sell,” explains Beurskens. “Our lingerie always has a feminine touch. Although it is influenced by fashion, we want it to exude confidence. “
In Beurskens’ view, this aspect of brand identity should never be missing, regardless of current market trends. “There’s a saying I like to quote: ‘A chef who cooks for everyone cooks for nobody.’ It’s similar in design. You need to know your target audience and understand what they want. There are trends, but it’s always about which elements really suit us and which we consciously ignore.”
Design for an audience, not for all
Today’s fashion is often about inclusion. But producing for everyone – in all sizes and colors – requires a careful strategic approach. “Some brands have tried to be inclusive overnight and failed because it seemed unbelievable,” Beurskens warns. “You have to build a story like this slowly and authentically.”
According to Beurskens, the design team works closely with material suppliers to develop their own lace and embroidery. “These details are what make the difference. For example, our Noir collection is designed in a subtle and high-quality way, while the Private collection deals playfully with the female body: what do you want to show and what would you rather hide? Finding sustainable alternatives for all of these elements is an art in itself.”
A trendsetter, not a trend follower
“You have to be particularly careful when choosing colors,” Beurskens knows. “Orange may be the color of the year, but it can look very different on the skin. Multicolor is another trend that doesn’t really fit Hunkemöller. If you if you follow any trend you are a trend follower, but as a brand we want to be trendsetters. We want to challenge the status quo but in our own authentic way.”
This, she deduces, is the X factor that has shaped Hunkemöller for almost a century and a half. “We have had the freedom and privilege to engage with the female body for so many years. I think there is no more rewarding goal than to continue this tradition with passion.”