Cozy materials that envelop us like a cocoon on one side. So-called dopamine dressing on the other side – in other words, happy colors mixed up: these styles have defined fashion over the past few years. Years that were shaped by the corona pandemic – and in which fashion should serve as a “sedative”, as Carl Tillessen from the German Fashion Institute says. On the other hand as “antidepressants, so as not to despair”.
But that time is over. “And in that sense it’s a very interesting season now because fashion is freed from this function of having to balance our mood and can go back to its actual functions,” says Tillessen. According to the trend expert, it can transport “other messages” again.
One of the messages that Tillessen makes for autumn and winter is this: Appreciation of the everyday, the familiar and the tried and tested. “It’s a very strong trend that’s expressed in terms of color in that there’s a return of classic shades of gray this coming winter.”
The special thing about it: The color characterizes the entire outfit – regardless of the occasion. “This gray really runs through everything from sportswear to elegant looks,” says Tillessen.
Harmonious combinations are in demand
But the gray is not the only color climber. According to the color and type consultant Jasmin Link, red is also “omnipresent again” this autumn and winter.
And how do you combine that? Should it look classy, for example with black or anthracite grey. Or in the so-called “French fries barrier combination”, i.e. with light beige or creamy white, according to Link. “It looks harmonious and cool as well as timeless.”
In general: Harmony plays an important role in fashion this autumn and winter. According to trend expert Tillessen, it is no longer about extremes, but “more sophisticated color harmonies and nuances”. Strong colors such as pink, orange and red no longer clash, but are buffered with calm tones. ‘Quiet meets Loud’, Tillessen calls this trend.
In addition to gray, the color beige is often present here. Fashion consultant Andreas Rose compares them to an unpainted canvas, open to whatever may come. “For this very reason, beige can also be excellently combined with other shades, which then have an even greater effect,” says Rose.
Jeans wherever you look
And something else will accompany us this autumn and winter: Y2K, the – not entirely new, but still relevant – fashion comeback of the noughties. That means: bootcut and low-waist cuts for pants, radically short cuts for tops. Jackets come in bolero length. “Sweatshirts are becoming crop tops that reveal the navel,” says Andreas Rose.
Sounds pretty cool for autumn and winter, but with the help of layering, i.e. the famous layered look, it can also be worn on less warm days. For example by throwing a hip-length cardigan over the short top. “That’s what makes it look sexy,” says personal stylist Maria Hans. “Because it’s just a small flash at the moment.”
Also already known this autumn and winter, but still present: double denim combinations. So denim jackets or denim shirts with denim trousers and denim skirts. In general: “Jeans are the ultimate statement of the season, for example at Ami and Versace,” explains Andreas Rose.
And just like in the noughties, they can often be seen in eye-catching washes. “Moon wash and marble wash and bleach effects that came out of that era are making a huge comeback now,” says Carl Tillessen.
Also back: fringes and rivets, leather and imitation leather. “If you talk about music inspiration, you can say that we’ve come through 10 years that have had a very strong hip-hop attitude,” says Tillessen. But now it’s back to the “rock ‘n’ roll attitude”.
This also fits the polka dots, which fashion consultant Andreas Rose identifies as a trend: “The 1950s-inspired print, which has been seen on many catwalks, appeared this season in mini, maxi or transparent models at Balmain, Miu Miu and Valentino”. According to the fashion consultant, the retro motif will also be replaced by metallic elements such as nails or eyelets, which provide “a rocking touch”.
Leather in many colors
Leather and imitation leather, on the other hand, are not only used dark and “rocky” this season. Both can also be found in more elegant pieces, such as classic coats, skirts and dresses – and in different colors.
A tip from personal shopper Maria Hans: Use pieces of leather as basics and combine them with different materials. For a cognac-colored leather skirt, she suggests a statement sweater with eye-catching prints or patterns, or a cashmere sweater, for example in pink or papaya tones.
By the way, another trend for autumn and winter that reflects the return of everyday life in an exemplary way: the rediscovery of business fashion. Glamor magazine calls it ‘business core’ – and one of “the dominant fashion trends for the new season” – whether you go to the office every day or not.
This includes pinstripe pant suits and the costume. Above all, however, a piece that many should still be familiar with from the 80s: the boxy blazer, preferably with shoulder pads. “And these superhero shoulders are very present, partly in combination with straight cuts, partly in combination with a wasp waist,” says Tillessen.
You can wear it with a pencil skirt, cut high at the waist – and ending just below the knee. Incidentally, comfort does not necessarily have to be sacrificed. “The feminine classic model is comfortable to wear thanks to a slit,” says Rose. (dpa)