Has Texel reached the limits of tourism? “For years,” says Dutch historian and Texel connoisseur par excellence Maarten van Rossem. “I came to Texel as a boy of ten. That was in 1953. But then there was not much to do.” Van Rossem has seen the character of the island change and tourist traffic grow. And certainly not in favor of the island itself, he believes. “De Koog in particular I think is screwed up by the growing tourism.”
Van Rossem can still remember Texel from his past. “I have another photo with my mother on the beach. And then you didn’t see any other bathers,” he says. His first holiday address was Hotel California between Den Burg and De Koog. “In relation to the lyrics from pop music, that hotel is of course special to have stayed there.” After that Lida pension in De Koog was the permanent holiday address. “In the 1960s we regularly went to De Koog, but we found it much too busy there.”
The Van Rossem family has even considered exchanging Texel for another Wadden island. “In the end we opted for the quiet Den Hoorn. For decades we lived in apartment farm De Gouden Reaal. We no longer do that for the simple reason that there is no toilet on the top floor. And when you get older, that is damn annoying .”
“It’s the classic quiet village screwed up by tourist traffic”
The Netherlands’ most famous historian and national grumbler still regularly visits the island. In the early and late season. “Yes and even two weeks in August,” he says. “Then it’s high season on Texel. I’d rather not go there then. But then the walking routes are still open.” He is also a lover of the beach pavilions. Preferably a ‘sloppy’ copy, as he calls it. “Pole 12, for example. But that’s also on its way to becoming way too fashionable with recliners and stuff like that. I’m a big fan of ’50s family holidays’.”
He is outspoken about the seaside resort of De Koog. “It’s terrible. It’s busy and ordinary. The town consists of shops and cafes. It’s the classic quiet village screwed up by tourist traffic. It attracts cheap day tourism. It’s the Marbella of the North Sea. And an example like it shouldn’t.” He also does not like to go to the touristic places. “My presence is limited to the southern part of the island. Den Hoorn is going, although it is also getting busier on that village square.”
Nightlife
“I’ve always seen Texel as the island for a family holiday. Children on the beach and taking a walk. You certainly don’t go there for the nightlife. My sister went there once to dance. We were ashamed of that. Every evening dancing in the Buteriggel in De Koog. You even had a nightlife on Texel at the time. But I never had anything to do with that.”
“You used to go to the island with a kind of steamer.”
The villages of Oosterend and De Waal are also favorites of Van Rossem. Especially for authenticity. The eastern part of Texel is unspoilt. “Let’s hope it stays that way. That also has to do with the fact that the Wadden coast is different from the North Sea coast. The light is very nice.” According to him, Texel therefore has two ‘faces’. “I don’t want to publicize this beautiful side of Texel. Because before you know it it will also be very busy there. You shouldn’t want that.”
Where the small ferries from Texel used to dock in Oudeschild, they now arrive at the ferry port on ‘t Horntje. “That was the breaking point for Texel”, is the opinion of the historian. “You used to go to the island with a kind of steamer. Then you were on the road for an hour and, moreover, only three or four cars could go on it.” In any case, no invitation to go to the island by car. “Either you came by bike or not at all.”
The ferries have become larger over the years and also double deck. For example, it can now transport a few hundred cars per hour. “After all, they will buy such a large boat that you can get on it in Den Helder and get off again on Texel. Exactly as long as the Marsdiep,” he jokes.
Policy
According to Van Rossem, it is important that good policy is made on the island. The municipal council has adopted the tourism plan for the future, which is now available for inspection. He thinks it’s good that Texel has set a maximum for the number of tourist sleeping places. “But I don’t know if that will be enforced,” he says. “It must not get out of hand. For example, that the island falls prey to mass tourism, as happened to De Koog.”
He warns not to end up in the ‘Schiphol process’. “That thousands of sleeping places are smuggled in every year. And that you are not completely controlled by the interests of the middle class. I will also tell you that I don’t like to shop in Den Burg. I have no business there.”
“Do you know who the island’s worst enemies are, those are the people of Texel themselves”
Of course, Van Rossem also has an opinion about the bed and breakfasts. “All kinds of places have fallen prey to this sector. Think of Amsterdam, where the most dominant sound is that of the trolley. You have to be careful that three-quarters of the population do not rent every room to tourists. You have to limit that. In Amsterdam they are now with the baked pears.”
Van Rossem sometimes gives lectures on the island. He also gave a lecture for Natuurmonumenten. Afterwards he spoke to someone from this organization: “Oh, mister van Rossem. Do you know who the worst enemies of the island are, those are the people of Texel themselves,” said this gentleman.
“A tiny dilapidated holiday home is now a capital villa that resembles a crematorium”
The historian can attest to that. He cites the oldest part of Texel as an example: the area around De Hoge Berg. “There was a tiny dilapidated holiday home, no bigger than a chicken coop. There is now a large villa that looks like a crematorium.”
He also mentions the example of the former youth hostel Panorama, which was at its highest point. “Due to a mysterious development, two luxurious villas have been built there. And that’s kind of my problem with Texel. Every time I’m on the island, something has been added somewhere.” According to him, it would be a bad thing if Texel continues to be built up. “Texel must stop granting unrestrained building permits. Because then the goose with the golden eggs will be slaughtered. And that no one will come to Texel anymore.”
NH360 about tourism on Texel
Has Texel reached the limit of tourism? NH hopes to receive an answer to this. The stories come from all sides: 360 degrees.
From 28 February to 3 March NH will move part of the editorial team to Den Burg. This week we can be found daily in the Glass Palace.
Do you want to join the conversation? Everyone is welcome to come and share their story with us. You can also just take a look. Our editorial staff can be found from tomorrow in the Glass Palace, located in the Wezentuin park in Den Burg.
All stories that are made from Texel can be recognized by the NH 360º design above the articles. A collection of the stories can be found at nhnieuws.nl/360texel.
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