P.er the adolescents, small and large dermatological problems are on the agenda: the thickening of the skin due to growth, the abundance of sebaceous production linked to hormonal changes, often cause impure skin, subject to blackheads, pimples, blemishes, if not acne.
For this to know how to recommend one correct daily skincare to their children is critical. “The right cleanser, the subsequent tonic with salicylic acid inside and a moisturizer (but not comedogenic) are among the fundamental steps” he explains Daniela Orlando, aesthetic doctor in Milan and Bergamo and consultant of Giuliani’s HMAP laboratory.
Skin and adolescents, how the epidermis changes in puberty
“The classics pimples that tend to characterize adolescence are due to different factors: the first is the natural thickening of the stratum corneum, the outermost. This factor causes a increased sebum productionthe epidermal lubricant, as the glands that produce it are particularly stressed by hormones ”explains the expert.
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As a result, a imbalance in the sebaceous composition: «In particular, fatty acids increase and are responsible for acne tendency»Explains doctor Daniela Orlando.
The direct consequence is therefore “thefollicle obstruction, meaning the pore closes allowing the proliferation of bacteriai caused by P.acnes, a bacterium which, as the name implies, leads to an increase in inflammation and the appearance of lesions or pimples typical of age ».
Teen skincare: the right beauty routine
What is key to remember is that during adolescence the skin needs a particular daily skincare that helps to “keep the situation at bay”.
Cleansing, tonic, cream are the three basic steps that teenagers should start taking. To these are added a mix of active ingredients that strengthen cleansing and topical therapies.
1. Detergents, the most suitable for young skin
For adolescent skin the cleansing that’s all. For this you need a product with very specific characteristics.
“It must first of all be in gel, based on AHA, the Afa-Hydroxyacids and with exfoliating microparticles. Acting both mechanically and chemically, it deeply cleanses thus thinning the stratum corneum »explains the doctor.
Alternatively, continues the expert, “they can also be chosen facial cleansers rich in minerals, probiotic fractions and salicylic acid which act by thinning the skin and reducing the production of sebum without however attacking ».
2. Tonic, with salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide
After cleansing, yes they must apply topical products that act in a specific way.
“The most suitable for adolescent skin are those with salicylic acid: it is a beta-hydroxy acid with a marked lipophilicity able to act effectively and quickly. His action sebolitic, bacteriostatic and keratolytic cause the reduction of comedones and a progressive normalization of the sebum drainage “.
In case of resistant acne, the Benzoyl peroxide: «It is an agent bactericidal, with antimicrobial activity against numerous bacteria, especially P. acnes. Furthermore prevents the formation of blackheads e reduces the number and size of cells keratinized “.
3. Moisturizing and anti-pimple face cream
Even the last step, that of moisturizer, must be an aid to prevent acne and pimples from proliferating. For this the formulas must be non-comedogenic and must contain nicotinamide, vitamin E, zinc and copper.
Their job is to stabilize the function of the epidermal barrier, preserving its hydration. Also essential in the case of younger skin is to increase the levels of ceramides and free fatty acids, in addition, these creams should have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulating properties.
Active anti-pimple ingredients
Not just a daily beauty routine to solve adolescent skin, in fact, in some cases, even more specific strategies are needed. For instance combining active ingredients that help fight the proliferation of pimples.
«They can be united bacterial agents, such as Benzoil peroxide together with retinoids which act on the skin and improve each other. In particular, retinoids are synthetic chemical compounds unrelated to vitamin A. Suitable for treating acne are the Tretinoin and Adapalene, which reduce the inflammatory component, have a comedolytic action and are able to prevent the appearance of post-acne scars ».
Systemic supplements
Daily skincare can also be helped by systemic supplements based on specific probiotics, in particular Bifidobacterium brevis, Lactobacillus brevis and Lactobacillus salivarius. All three act in synergy with the prescribed routine e they have an inhibitory action towards P. acnes thus decreasing the production of sebum », Dr. Orlando concludes.
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