Recloseted is a Vancouver and London based fashion industry consultancy founded in 2019. It advises designers on how to start their own conscious brand, follows trends and innovations in sustainable fashion and shows how to future-proof your company with sustainability best practices. FashionUnited spoke to Recloseted Founder and CEO Selina Ho in an email interview about the hurdles and opportunities for the industry to become more sustainable.
Can you tell us a little bit about what made you start Recloseted?
I founded Recloseted to change the toxic effects of the fashion industry. I’ve always loved clothes but was an unknowing consumer of fast fashion until five years ago. I developed a rash while wearing a polyester shirt and it led me on a wild quest which in turn led to discovering the sordid truths behind our clothes. I watched the documentary “The True Cost” and learned about the harmful materials used in our clothes, the unethical treatment of garment workers, the mass overconsumption of clothes and the millions of tons of textile waste we throw away on our throw in landfills. When all of this became clear to me, I knew I had to do something about it, and so Recloseted was born.
Since you operate worldwide, can you say something about which country or region you currently see the greatest demand for your services?
We’re seeing a lot of demand from all over the world, which is very exciting. However, most of our customers come from Europe, the USA, Canada and Australia.
What is the most common hurdle that has kept brands from becoming more sustainable?
Many brands are overwhelmed with where and how to start. It’s a big undertaking and can be very difficult with limited time, resources and budget. That’s why it’s important for people to know their ‘why’ and set their priorities for the journey to sustainability.
We always encourage our clients to decide on one or two priorities so they don’t get overwhelmed and can do those one or two things really well. When a brand has limited time, resources, and budget, they have to make a choice.
How difficult is it for brands to find new manufacturing companies?
It can be difficult if you don’t have industry knowledge and/or connections and are looking for a manufacturing business for the first time. I always discourage brands in the early stages from going to establishments with high minimum order quantities. It’s not a good idea to tie up cash in stocks that aren’t selling. However, finding an operation with low minimum order quantities adds even more complexity. Also, there is a high risk of being scammed and taken advantage of, so people really need to do their due diligence.
How concerned are companies about greenwashing right now?
This is a big topic at the moment. Many of our customers strive to be conscious about it and hesitate to talk about their progress for fear of setbacks, while brands that are not very sustainable scream from the rooftops that they are “green” or “eco “ be. It’s quite contradictory, and the sustainable fashion realm is a bit like the Wild West.
What advice do you have for brands that are starting fresh and want to be sustainable from the start?
I know there is a lot of pressure to be “perfectly sustainable” and I want to convey that there is no such thing as a truly 100% sustainable brand. I talk about it on my podcast and on our Instagram and YouTube channels, but if you wanted to start a truly sustainable fashion brand you wouldn’t start a new business because that has an impact on the environment. Therefore, the true essence of sustainability is about balance – how can we all keep a balance by taking what we need while leaving enough for future generations? Hopefully that takes some of the pressure off of being “perfectly sustainable” and encourages brands to just get started.
The first step I would take is to become clear about why you are doing this and what is important. Is it the unethical treatment of garment workers? Is it about the millions of tons of textile waste that end up in landfills? Why is sustainability important and what one or two priorities can a brand focus on as mentioned in the third question.
What about established brands looking to make the switch?
The tips I gave in the previous question also apply to established brands. In addition, however, I would like to emphasize the importance of setting realistic yet ambitious goals and then creating a plan to achieve them. Instead of setting unrealistic goals that sound good, brands should think about what they can actually achieve over the next year, next three years, next five years and beyond, and then create a solid plan to get there. We need more accountability and engagement from brands as opposed to grand declarations and sweeping goals under the rug when inevitably they are not met.