11La total-white plasticity that breaks the expanses of lava, under an already African sun, anticipates a certain design, a decidedly minimalist taste with surprising modernity. But unlike what combines functionality and design, the architecture of César Manrique, the creative mind behind the redevelopment of the volcanic island of Lanzarote in the 1970s, perhaps the most fascinating of the Canary archipelago, pursues the sole objective of the combination of art and nature. An ante litteram sustainability bent to the overwhelming charm of the territory. An increasingly current message. The legacy of the architect César Manrique (Lanzarote 1919-1992) is one of the good reasons to leave for the Canary Islands.
In Lanzarote, architecture “frames” the lava
In this almost African warmth (22 ° the average temperature even in autumn), after having studied in Madrid and having perfected in New York, Manrique returns to stay. It was 1966. The three-quarters lava-covered island was inhabited by camels carrying the Malvasia grapes and by farmers who collected ladybirds to obtain the carmine red. To attract tourism, the Timanfaya National Park alone could not be enough, an ocher-red brick marvel created in six years of eruptions, from 1730 onwards, with sunken craters covered with green down, the overturned earth in which it was shot 2001 A Space Odyssey. The architect was asked to design the new Lanzarote: the airport, the Farmer’s House-Museum, the Mirador del Rio viewpoint and the Jameos del Agua lounge bar. On one condition: that they integrate seamlessly with cacti, aloe and magma escaped up to 200 years before it had reshaped the morphology of the island. So it was.
When the combination of art and nature is a winner
In the Pantelleria of the Atlantic, Manrique made his home-studio the manifesto of the binomial art-nature that he would later transfer elsewhere. North of the capital Arrecife, in Tahiche, inserted in a geometry of vines and dry stone walls, the house-refuge found its foundations in a river of lava from which five volcanic bubbles had burst. The iron sculptures called “toys” break the sound waves of the wind. The curves of the land delimit the volumes. Palms and prickly pears coexist in the rooms with the old chests. And the windows without frames rest directly on the lava soil. Inside there are the Afro paintings of the German friend Gretel Brand, a collection of drawings and black and white photographs depicting the comings and goings of camels in the fields.
In the Canaries, the magical world of cacti
He is inspired by the same research the Cactus Garden of Guatiza, further north-east, completed in 1991, a year before his death. A series of spectacular basaltic terraces created around a mill are the habitat of 9700 plants and 1420 species: a score of branches, thorns and leaves that honors the euphorbia canariensis such as the Mexican opuntia. In the nearby plantations of prickly pears, the ladybug that colored the Campari bitter was harvested in autumn. Further north, on the east coast, in the Malpais de la Corona wine area, there are the sunken caves of Jameos del Agua which Manrique, in 1976, transformed into a lounge bar with an auditorium and dance floor. Identical destiny for the Mirador del Rio, a lookout 400 meters high overlooking the remote island of Graciosa where the architect designed a bar with panoramic windows one with the volcanic rock.
La laurisilva, laurel forest in Garajonay National Park, on the island of La Gomera.
In the realm of laurisilva
A scenic effect, that of volcanic lava, also produced in theTenerife islandwhose Chinyero still erupted up to 100 years ago, and whose Teide volcano, 3,718 meters high and a perimeter of 17 kilometers, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Starlight Destination for observing the night sky and a National Park, among the most visited in Europe. People come here to swim out of season, for the landscape and for trekking. 63 percent of the island’s territory is protected and the trails in national parks and reserves are well marked and maintained.
Night view of Roque Cinchado, 2 meters above sea level in the Teide National Park. It is one of the most significant natural monuments on the island of Tenerife.
With La Gomera and Madeira (Portugal), Tenerife is the kingdom of laurisilva, the endemic laurel forest typical of humid-tropical climates, a relic of ancient forests, with gigantic evergreen laurels and a very rich undergrowth of mosses, ferns and tree heather. An environment characterized by monument trees (292), palm trees that grow up to 600 meters, endemic pines once used for the construction of the master trees and antiguos caminos, mule tracks dug into the sides of the mountains to collect coal and sell the milk of goat. Trekking, a strong motivation to leave, leads to explore the Parque Rural de Anaga which protects a massif not hit by lava in the eruptions that accompanied the formation of the great Teide volcano. There are panoramic views of the steep coast in the reserve part that bears the name of Pijaral where the forest of laurels preserves extraordinary ferns. Also spectacular are the walks in the Parque Rural del Teno, to the northwest: a rocky territory, marked by deep cliffs, with daring views of the ocean.
Discovering the colonial villages
You then gladly go down to the valley in the market town of San Cristobal de La Lagunafounded in 1496, university seat since 1726, with the precious old town to be explored on foot or by bicycle, the houses with basalt corners and wooden shutters. Among the villages we must not miss Garachico, further west, a harmonious ensemble of ancient houses, cobbled, colonial facades and colored glass lunettes.or, once surrounded by banana and sugar cane plantations. The west coast of the island, the first marine area in Europe, is a Heritage Site for the protection of whales, a certification of the World Cetacean Alliance.
The village of Garachico on the island of Tenerife.
Whale (photographic) hunting
Cetaceans that are also sighted in La Gomera. Barren, mountainous, volcanic, little Gomera is just 39 kilometers as the crow flies from the port of Los Cristianos in Tenerife. Cliffs, gorges, canyons, terraces held by dry stone walls for the cultivation of cereals and legumes, and scattered palm trees, draw its remote landscape. To the north there are cornfields and scattered vineyards, as well as banana trees. The less rural south is the cradle of euphorbia, mangoes, date palms, agave and prickly pears. Like Tenerife, La Gomera also preserves a vast strip of laurisilva limited to the perimeter of the Parque Nacional de Garajonay. It is nice to walk here, in Barranquillos, on the path that leads to a natural terrace overlooking the village of Alojera on the northwest coast.
A local toast in the colonial villages
Among the villages not to be missed there is Agulosmall and round, surrounded by terraced banana trees, with a curious church with small domes built on a place of worship dating back to 1613 and Calle Pintor Aguiar where the “noble” houses parade. In the small capital of San Sebastian de la Gomera you can taste the “miel de palma” made from the sap of the date palm. Mixed with spirit, it is called “guarapo”, the island brandy. Who knows if it was also tasted by Columbus passing through here, staying in the Casa della Duana, before turning to the Americas to other islands.
The houses of Calle Real, San Sebastian, La Gomera, in the Canaries
Where to sleep in the Canaries
Dreams Playa Dorada
Playa Blanca, Yaiza, Lanzarote.
Beautifully located spa resort, recently reopened and elevated to 5 stars. From 189 euros. dreamsplayadorada.com
San Roque hotels
Garachico, Tenerife.
Colonial hotelito “con encanto”, with modern décor and works of art. Double from 188 euros. hotelsanroque.com
Jardin-Tecina
Playa Santiago, La Gomera.
Resort with sea view restaurant, housed in an old finca (farm) with botanical garden. Double from 174 euros. jardin-tecina.com/es
Country houses
Villas, with gardens, for rent in La Gomera. islarural.com
Where to eat
Brunelli’s
Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife.
American steakhouse with terrace overlooking the sea and one of the most spectacular sunsets. brunellis.com/en
Efigenia House
La Gomera.
Simple and authentic cuisine in an old rural farmhouse overlooking palm trees transformed into a mountain restaurant, with the old one
shop where they were selling sugar and coffee. efigenialagomera.com/en/restaurant
What to do in the Canaries
Tecno activo
For trekking with nature guides in Tenerife, canoeing and diving. tenoactivo.com
INFORMATION
spain.info
webtenerife.com
lagomera.travel
outdooractive.com
turismolanzarote.com
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