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The main square of Villalgordo del Jucar, a town of just over 1,000 inhabitants to the north of Albacete, stands out at half past one in the afternoon for its absolute lack of shade. There are gleaming wooden benches, a handful of very young trees, two-storey white and brown houses, the town hall and the 17th-century church of Santa María Magdalena, on whose side steps, with her back to the square, she is sitting. Maria Dolores Torres. I had no town, he says.

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