A design debut is always highly anticipated, but Belgian fashion brand Ann Demeulemeester’s show offered several reasons why all eyes were on her. It wasn’t the brand’s first debut this year, but its second. Designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his debut at the beginning of the year, but disappeared from the scene after his first collection. Now it was Stefano Gallici’s turn.
Gallici made his debut as creative director of the Belgian fashion brand during Paris Fashion Week. The signature interplay of black and white that founder Ann Demeulemeester was so known for has been retained, but this time the palette has been expanded to include two colors: cobalt blue and khaki green. A surprise for the audience.
The collection had lots of fringe and strappy details. A variety of transparent dresses, some cargo pants, but also leather aprons could be seen. In general, there was a lot of leather in the collection. Not just as belts and aprons, but also around arms and other body parts.
Gallici seems to understand the essence of Ann Demeulemeester. It’s not for nothing that the designer also worked behind the scenes at the brand for three years. At that time he was responsible for men’s fashion there. In its debut collection, the brand’s dark atmosphere is well complemented by sophisticated cuts and eye-catching details. Whether Gallici will stay longer than his predecessor De Saint Sernin remains to be seen, but at least the tone already seems to be set.
This translated article previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl