«We are what we put on our face» is the mantra of Nichola Joss, facialist courted by the international jet set, but also a truth: the order and the sequence in which the cosmetic products are applied, whether we are talking about skincare or make up, it is important at least as good as their quality. By replicating it correctly, each layer will enter into synergy with the previous one and the next, enhancing its effects. Guide on how to proceed.
Skincare, the right order in which to apply products
In the treatment of the skin, the product layering combines ingredients and textures with different properties and actions. Three+five+seven. It’s the minutes spent every day in front of the mirror. The former to cleanse, the latter to treat, the latter to make up.
A first rule not to be forgotten: always start with the most fluid textures, leaving the creamiest textures for last. «Containing more water they are more similar to the epidermis, so yes they absorb better and penetrate deeperhydrating and preparing for the products applied subsequently» underlines Nats Johansson, co-founder together with Monica Kylen by Swedish skincare brand L:A Bruket.
Step one, tonic or essence
Having said that, here’s how to start the right order in which to apply the products. «Especially when it starts to get hot, the first thing you need to spray on your face an essence, a moisturizing water that provides an initial treatment input.
the booster, generally very fluid, it can be an alternative to essences. Not born as a cosmetic in its own right but as an instant energy supplement, even composed of a single active ingredient, it can be mixed with serum.
Step two, boosters and serums
Then the serum, where the aqueous component is mixed a water-soluble active ingredients very concentrated and reduced to very small molecules that would not be absorbed if dispersed in richer bases» underlines Johansson.
Step three, the cream
Then it goes to creams. Noin the order, that first specifically for the eye area and lips then the one for the face. «This specialty seals the substances already absorbed inside the skin, creating a physical barrier of protection which prevents water evaporation» concludes the expert.
Step four, the SPF
Closer with a quick essential step, the sun: if the day cream does not contain Spf, massage a very light veil of it, making sure it is absorbed well before applying make-up. As a general rule, sip each cosmetic and calculate at least one minute between one layering and another.
The order of makeup products, from primer to bronzer
Even make-up has its rules of order of application of the products, remembering that it must be emphasized without weighing it down.
To inaugurate the sequence is the primers, «which is essential because it prolongs the seal by creating a protective film with the external environment» he points out Luca Mannucci, official make up artist of Deborah Milano. Followed by foundation and concealer.
«The first must be spread with the hands or a soft rounded brush, for a more transparent effect, or with the sponge to be more opaque. Ditto the second: which can be more liquid to obtain a brighter base or in sticks for a more opaque finish» continues the make-up artist, who suggests close with «setting powder, for the T-zoneor theilluminating, to be used on cheekbonesnose and lips to maintain a glow foundation».
But the order can change in specific cases. «If the skin is sensitive, the steps can be reducedfollowing the primer with a few drops of foundation and highlighter mixed together. If it’s oily, for more coverage, apply the concealer first, even in stick form, and then the foundation. Closing with the powder and eliminating the highlighter» concludes Mannucci.
Perfumes can also be layered
An average that does not however take into account the final gesture, that cloud of perfume that just like skincare and makeup loves to play with layering. «In the world of fragrances, this technique is the hyperbole of experimentation.
Two or even three bouquets can be superimposed, to be sprayed on the same spot or in different spots, two sprays at a time, from the warmest to the lightest notes» he says Nicholas Pozzanicreative director of Mavive and theme interpreter with The Merchant of Venice Perfume Accords, collection of precious and sustainable raw materials. Naturally buildable. He is of the same opinion Benoit Verdierco-founder of the brand Ex Nihilo.
“It’s an exercise that enhances personalization and self-expression.” Any basic rules for the French nose? “The hesperidates they are sparkling, fresh, citrusy, so they go used first in order to awaken the layering effect, knowing however that they will soon evaporate. In reverse, amber, tonka bean, vanilla, which warm making the bouquet more persistent, they will come full circle.”
About seasonality and times of day, Pozzani suggests to layer warm amber and woody notes in the evening or in winterpreferring them citrus or floral when the temperature rises. «While in spring a white bouquet of neroli and tuberose superimposed on bergamot or saffron can be ideal». His favorite combination? Tonka, neroli and bergamot.
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