Self-tanners, how to use them and choose them in the summer

“It interacts with the stratum corneum by means of a chemical reaction that develops color,” he explains Umberto Borellini, cosmetologist. “Introduced for the first time in cosmetics in the 1960s, as a safe alternative to long exposure to UV rays that accelerate skin aging, remains the best ally to erase the pallor and give reflections that do not go away with cleansing ».

The new formulations: natural with sugar and coconut oil

View until recently with skepticism because of the shades prone to orange and a tendency to develop drynesstoday the new specialties have more advanced and performing formulas.

«To overcome these drawbacks, the active molecule is associated with erythrulose, one natural sugar that reacts in the same way as the pivotal active ingredientbut at different times: while the latter develops the nuance after 2-4 hours, the other reacts within a day of application to perfect it and avoid unwanted shades “he says Mercedes Today, Training Manager Sisley Italy.

More and more sensorial textures allow you to say goodbye to those difficult to spread, while specific ingredients counteract dehydration. «The combination of cassava and coconut oil extracts creates dynamic emulsions in the form of liquid crystals: they incorporate water and release it over time, guaranteeing a feeling of comfort that lasts all day» adds Odierna.

«To counteract the oxidative reaction developed by the coloring molecules, it is also important that the product contains “thirst-quenching” complexes based on extracts of stevia leaves, biosaccharides and vegetable glycerin ».

How to apply them without making mistakes

You cannot expect to achieve a smooth and satisfying “sun-kissed” complexion without proceeding with method. It doesn’t take a lot of time, but accuracy makes a difference.

First move the peeling, with a preparation in very fine granules. «It is a preparatory, irreplaceable step: it eliminates the greyish layer created by cell turnover, as well as thickening and refines the skin texture.

Immediately afterwards we switch to the moisturizer: these steps ensure perfect absorption and avoid streaks and stains»Specifies Marika Cangelosi, 2G Beauty Communication beautician and trainer.

Mousse, wipes or cream: each skin has its own texture

Even if the choice of texture depends on personal tastes, there are general indications.

“Given that they should not be used on the acneic, inflamed complexion, with ongoing skin reactions and vitiligo, creams and milks are suitable for normal to dry skin, while wipes and mousses for mixed or oily skin »explains Borellini. It is always recommended to use small quantities at a time, spreading them well with your fingertips. “Only when each dose is absorbed does the next one proceed.

The cosmetic is dotted first on small areas that require great precisionsuch as the nostrils and the tip of the nose, along the perimeter of the browbone, the ears and behind the auricle, the chin and near the roots of the hair.

It continues on the largest surfaces, from the forehead to the cheeks, from the neck to the décolleté »adds Marika Cangelosi. The tone obtained remains intact for a long time by putting into practice a small trick. “Every day you mix a knob of moisturizer with a few drops of self-tanner, and when you notice irregularities and loss of intensity you repeat scrub and spread again” he says Monica Broccoli, research and development supervisor of Collistar.

Choose the right tone

The choice of the nuance that enhances your phototype it is one of the most difficult steps. But there is a catch. «To identify it, check the Inci, or the list of ingredients.

If the active appears immediately after the first component (water), it means that it contains a high percentage of hydroxyacetoneand therefore it is suitable for enhancing medium and dark complexions, while if it appears from third place onwards it warms the complexion with warm tones and is ideal for fair skin »explains the beautician.

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