By Sabine Klier
It is the oldest bakery in Potsdam and has been family-owned for 170 years. The Braune bakery is managed in the fifth generation by Werner Gniosdorz (67). Schrippen are still baked here according to the recipe from the great-great-grandfather.
The bakery survived two wars, nationalization by the GDR, and reunification. Even if the old baking tradition lives on here with the recipes handed down, Gniosdorz says: “We are not a museum, but a modern bakery.”
6 a.m. in the morning: 16 employees work in the bakery. Including a master baker, two master confectioners and two apprentices Photo: Thomas Spikermann
Only last year he bought a new, electrically operated oven. And last week the striped awning in front of the large window front was renewed. Only the dark wood sales room dates back to the 1930s. In 2021, the Christmas advertising film by Netto was shot in it.
The rolls are formed with the dough dividing and rounding machine. It was not purchased until after the fall of the Wall Photo: Thomas Spikermann
The Braune Bakery is the oldest guild business in the city of Potsdam. The house has existed since 1734. Back then, Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse was still called Nauener Strasse. In 1743 a baker was already working here. In 1853 master baker Gustav Braune, a miller’s son, acquired the property for 8,500 thalers.
In 1893 the carriages drove up. The great-great-grandfather Gustav Braune bought the bakery in 1853. It has been family-owned ever since Photo: Thomas Spikermann
A year later the bakery burned down and the building had to be rebuilt. In 1893 the son Wilhelm took over the bakery. In 1916 electricity was connected. From 1920 Wilhelm jun. the bakery, bought the first electrically operated dough kneading machines. In 1945 it survived a bomb attack.
1908: After a fire, the facade of the house at today’s Friedrich-Ebert Str. 101 was redesigned Photo: Thomas Spikermann
Daughter Käte Braune married master baker Josef Gniosdorz in 1953, who took over the bakery in 1963. “In 1972 our business was to be nationalized. But it never came to that. Grandpa is said to have said that no one other than my son-in-law bakes here, otherwise the house will be boarded up,” says Werner Gniosdorz, who, even as a child, helped his grandfather to shape the pastries in the cool basement.
The breads are made by hand according to the old recipes – but not all 16 varieties are offered every day Photo: Thomas Spikermann
He has owned the bakery since 1989. The chef: “After reunification, I introduced grain rolls and we baked the larger West rolls. But the disappointment was great when our customers preferred the small rolls based on the recipe of their great-great-grandfather.”
The bakery is traditionally closed on Mondays. And in the summer, the entire workforce goes on vacation for three weeks. There are 16 employees, including Werner’s daughter Birgit (38). The master confectioner will take over the bakery.
Confectioner Justine Bartsch is working on a sugar crown for a cake Photo: Thomas Spikermann
The company has been awarded the Golden Brezel, the Oscar of bakers, eight times. Gniosdorz: “My customers know that we don’t have all 16 types of bread on the shelves every day. The world champion bread is only available on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The Cossack bread only on Wednesdays.” And what is his favorite thing to eat? “The wheat roll and a nice crumble snail.”
The bakers Florian Kornmann and Peter Heinzel prepare the rolls for the oven. The Ost-Schrippen are more compact because the dough does not contain any emulsifiers Photo: Thomas Spikermann
The last price increase was in November 2022. “It’s not the increased raw material prices or the energy costs that are to blame, but the increased minimum wage,” says Gniosdorz and calculates: “Of 1.07 euros, 7 cents are VAT. One euro ends up in the till. Of this, 55 percent are personnel costs.”
His great wish for the future: “I hope that customers can continue to come to me. Most older people come by car. I’m afraid that our street could be permanently closed to traffic.”