Saudi Arabian fashion wants to evolve on the international stage. For this reason, the heir to the Saudi Arabian throne Mohammed bin Salman (MbS) recently organized a double event during Paris men’s fashion and haute couture week.
On the one hand, a showroom was set up in the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine between June 24th and 27th, in the middle of Men’s Fashion Week. On display were Saudi brands and ready-to-wear collections for women, men and unisex, many of which were made in Saudi Arabia. A couture show was then held from July 3rd to 5th at the Hôtel Marcel Dassault, home to the Artcurial auction house in the heart of Paris’ “Golden Triangle”.
These two events were driven by the Saudi 100 Brands program created by the Saudi Fashion Commission. The commission was set up in 2020 under the supervision of the Saudi Arabian Ministry of Culture. All of this is part of a broader strategy being pursued by the ministry. As stated in a press release, the region is leading a “cultural shift to develop a rich ecosystem that fosters creativity, unleashes the sector’s economic potential and nurtures inspiring new forms of expression.”
Burak Cakmak, CEO of the Fashion Commission, said: “By showcasing Saudi fashion at Paris Fashion Week, we are helping our designers take their rightful place on the world stage. From haute couture to menswear to jewelry and accessories, we invite everyone to discover what Saudi fashion has to offer. I am confident that our guests will be inspired by the new generation of Saudi designers who are pushing the boundaries with their timeless creations.”
He also emphasized the desire to expand the reach of Saudi fashion on a global scale and confirmed its development with figures. Growth of more than 32 billion US dollars (29 billion euros) is expected by 2025.
Although this was a first for Paris, the City of Light is not the only fashion capital in which the Saudi 100 Brands program has invested. In 2022 and 2023, Saudi fashion was also exhibited in Milan as part of the White Milano fair.
Many of the pieces on display belonged to the “modest fashion” segment, which includes garments originally designed for Muslim women but also worn by people of Christian and Jewish faiths. The presence of Modest Fashion in the showrooms is mainly due to the influence of the Fashion Commission, which among other things wants to ensure that the fashion industry is committed to Saudi values and traditions.
Fashion as part of the “Vision 2030” plan
The development of Saudi fashion is in line with the goal of Saudi Arabia’s “Vision 2030”. Launched in 2016, this sweeping economic and social modernization plan aims to diversify and expand the Kingdom’s activities beyond oil. To this end, the share of gross domestic product (GDP) outside the oil sector is to be increased from 16 to 50 percent and the contribution of the private sector to GDP is to be increased from 40 to 65 percent. Finally, the strategy also aims to increase the proportion of women in the labor force from the current 22 percent to 30 percent.
According to a report released by the Fashion Commission in March 2023, the Saudi fashion sector is expected to generate 1.4 percent of the kingdom’s GDP by 2022, equivalent to US$12.5 billion in gross value added. The document states that this added value is mainly generated through consumption linked to wholesale and retail activities.
Looking at employment figures, the document informs that by 2022, it is estimated that “the fashion ecosystem will account for 1.8 percent of the total Saudi labor force and employ 230,000 people”. The majority of these workers are female (52 percent).
For a successful development of the Saudi fashion sector, the kingdom needs to invest in the upstream value chain and increase its capacities in the production of apparel and textiles as well as in product development. Currently, the country is heavily dependent on imported raw materials and finished products. Although some resources already exist in the area of raw hides, leather and synthetic textiles, this area remains largely untapped and is not innovative enough from a technical point of view.
The fashion landscape in Saudi Arabia today has a high proportion of imported products, mainly from China. Although apparel exports increased by 11 percent between 2012 and 2021, imports increased by 42 percent over the same period.
In addition to product and industry development, other action points to promote development are implemented: education and creativity, retail, storytelling and event organization, and sustainability. In 2018, Saudi Arabia organized its first-ever fashion week.
In June, Prince Mohammed bin Salman and President Emmanuel Macron met to support the Saudi state’s involvement in organizing the 2030 World Expo. While the Saudi head of state was still considered a pariah on the international chessboard for his role in the assassination of journalist Jamal Khashoggi in 2018, the man has since been pardoned. According to France 24, since the invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, MBS has emerged from its global isolation to meet with political leaders.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.fr