30 years ago, he went from exotic architect to cult icon. The works of the Argentine Italian Francisco Salamonespread across the province of Buenos Aires, have become a pilgrimage point. Targeting those interested, a book published by Buenos Aires Editions gathers all its collection. Is called “Salamone Route” and was written by Florencia Di Paolo, Sebastián Russo Bautista, Alejandro Gómez Monzón and Patricia Ratto, with a prologue by René Longoni, photos by Martín Aurand and illustrations by Baires Baires (free download on the publisher’s website). They divided the investigation into the southern, western, northern and central routes of the province, respectively, and they tell us about the experience of approaching the works.
Like many greats, Salamone’s work was that of a man ahead of his time. “Its squares and buildings built in about 40 locations between 1936 and 1940 They meant the presence of modern and monumental architecture (in the most notable cases) and became characteristics of the urban landscape of these towns, more accustomed in their time to the pampas and low houses,” the text explains. He was a prolific talent, but with almost no recognition until the 1990s. His architecture cannot be pigeonholed into a single style, because it is the mixture of several and therefore the creation of one of his own: functionalism, rationalism, art deco, expressionism and neocolonialism, among others, combine to forge their mark.
In which towns should we stop to see their buildings? Here are some indications. By the way, suggestions of other attractive points to visit in those same cities and make the tour of the province more interesting.
The ways
The routes can be divided into four. Towards the south, the map runs Tornquist, Saldungaray, Colonel Pringles, Laprida and San Jorge. In Laprida, the slaughterhouse stands out, with a futuristic aesthetic, with a tower that dialogues very well with the municipal palace, another of its own work. Also the municipal corralón, the fountain in the central square and the cemetery, whose portal is the largest religious monument in Latin America after Christ the Redeemer in Brazil. “Its structure can be seen in the distance, in the middle of the plain, like most of Salamone’s works (…) You have to move away to appreciate it and the tree-lined path adds mysticism to the procession. “It doesn’t look like anything,” says Florencia Di Paolo.
Those who decide to stop in this city can also visit another interesting tourist spot: El Paraíso lagoon, a lush natural environment around which a recreational complex and a spa were created. It is a recognized area for fishing, given that two other lagoons are located nearby, Piorno and Quillalauquen.
Westward, The “Salamone route” continues through Pellegrini, Tres Lomas, Salliqueló, Guaminí, Villa Epecuén and Carhué. In Guaminí, the municipality, Plaza Alsina, Christ and the slaughterhouse stand out. Regarding the latter, Russo Bautista expresses: “a powerful building made to survive inclement conditions, built not only to produce meat, but also a visual effect of state monumentality, in this case at the entrance to the city of Guaminí.” Built in 1937, it is a concrete mass that calls tourists to stop and immortalize it in photos.
The visit to Guaminí can be completed with a tour of the Laguna Alsina spa, whose coastline is picturesque and offers the always charming landscape of the sunset over the water.
Cardinal points
On the northern routes, andThe map highlights Juan Bautista Alberdi, Vedia, El Dorado, Leandro N. Alem and Alberti. In Vedia, the town hall is a perfect monument to art deco. With a tower crowned by a clock (which today appears stopped at 4:40), it appears spacious and circumspect. “It is impressive to think of the bricklayers and the foreman who, under the shadow of Salamone and with the tools from almost 90 years ago, assembled that imposing concrete at that point in history and in the sky,” says Alejandro Gómez Monzón, who toured the area to describe it. Another Salamonic landmark of Vedia was the slaughterhouse, which although standing, today became a municipal kennel.
The visit to Vedia can be completed by walking through the railway station with English architecture, visiting the 70 hectares of park that make up the municipal spa and even celebrating the Festival in Tribute to the Horse on the second weekend of September.
Finally, The central routes bring together Adolfo González Chaves, Chillar, Azul, Miranda, Rauch and Cuartel VII. For many students of this architect, his works in Azul are some of the most important of his career. Here are the Plaza San Martín, the municipal slaughterhouse, the doorway of the Domingo F. Sarmiento Municipal Park and the cemetery, which many consider one of the creations where he best expounded his style. At his entrance, a cubist image of the archangel Gabriel with a sword dominates the scene, while initial giants of RIP support him. Inaugurated in 1938, it is 21 meters high and 43 meters wide.
The trip to Azul can be complemented with other activities: a visit to the Trappist monastery, which can give a special moment: a mass sung by the monks; or the historic Spanish Theater; or to the Boca de las Sierras natural reserve, where it is possible to trek and admire sculptures by Carlos Regazzoni.
Throughout the province of Buenos Aires, Francisco Salamone left his footprints. Following them will illuminate the grandeur of his architectural style, but also delve into the simple charm of rural towns.
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