Romans, Rotterdammers and Tiranese in one square – this final is ‘the best thing that happened to Albania’

With the first and, as it turns out, the only goal of the game, it is immediately clear: everyone in the stadium is for AS Roma except for the Dutch. The silent majority erupts into a long ovation of applause. Until then, the songs and roars of the Feyenoord legion have filled the small brand new stadium, just as they have dominated the center of Tirana all sweltering hot all day.

There is a party all day long. Fears of fan violence among the authorities and citizens of Albania’s capital, fueled by nighttime clashes and numerous arrests, proved unfounded. It had also never been larger to place fan zones in remote, run-down outskirts of the city, a well-known process for gaining maximum control over hooligans. Not in Tirana. Here a city and country wants to prove something. The Feyenoord supporters get a place on the promenade that leads from the central square to the most luxurious department store in the country. The Roma fans can party in the most beautiful park in Albania.

Feyenoord supporters are surprised. “As if they really like that we are here,” says a father wearing a Feyenoord shirt with the print ‘The Legion’. He has come to Tirana with his two sons. “They also say: the people receive us here so friendly, that is actually hard to believe.” They expect Rick Karsdorp to give a weak “tap back” to the Italian keeper, in order to let his old club win. “His family still lives in Rotterdam, he was even loaned to Feyenoord to make playing minutes again. He knows what he owes us.”

Also read: It goes wrong for Feyenoord in the final

Things are different. A sour blow for the supporters who gave a lot to be there in Tirana. They will tell you about it before the game. About a legion in his fifties who went with gout and a lot of pain. About a buddy who lost a close relative just days before. A family that had to change trains three times and took 27 hours to travel. Roeland Haanen (52) loves that heroism. Perseverance, sacrifice, loyalty. “Of course we don’t want day trippers. That is also the only difficult thing about these days: there is now such a party atmosphere around Feyenoord, also outside Rotterdam. It’s getting a little too cozy, that doesn’t suit us.”

After the loss, that ambivalence is no longer Haanen’s problem. He appt: „You are a Feyenoord supporter for the experience, not for the successes. And what a fantastic experience this European season was. Proud of Feyenoord!” Haanen had bought his ticket on the black market, for 1,192 euros. The flight from Dortmund cost 800 euros. Was that worth it? Haanen: „I am over fifty. How many more times will I get this chance?”

Success of a new tournament

Not only the supporters were pleasantly surprised in the run-up to the final. Also the European Football Association UEFA. Especially about the interest. Chairman Aleksander Ceferin could therefore understand the criticism of the stadium choice. From now on, UEFA would think of larger stadiums.

The success of this new European tournament is evident in Skanderbeg Square, in the center of Tirana. There is a long queue there all Wednesday, in the blazing sun. Thousands of Romans, Rotterdammers and Tyranese wait their turn quietly to climb a scaffold and have their picture taken with the cup, a trophy that was never awarded before but has apparently already reached the status of relic. Some kiss the goblet.

The UEFA chief’s error of judgment is lucky for Tirana, that the city can no longer be taken away. The violence seems to have been contained. Although it was there, of course, in the night from Tuesday to Wednesday. Nineteen police officers were injured. One suffered stab wounds. Police fired tear gas and arrested nearly 100 people, mostly Italians. Ten civilians were hospitalized. Two Dutchmen will remain in custody – an official investigation has been launched against them.

In the early Wednesday morning, another eighty Italian fans were put back on the boat to Italy via Durres. “Deported,” Albanian newspapers call it. Tyrants are happy about it, because Albanians residing illegally in Italy were sent back to Albania for years, often by boat. “There should be 84,” says an Albanian in conversation with a group of Feyenoord supporters. He meant that number as a reference to the tragedy of Otranto, in March 1997, when 84 Albanians lost their lives after their boat was rammed by an Italian ship and sank. The victims were fleeing the chaos and violence that plagued Albania in those days. It has always remained unclear whether (Italian) intent was involved.

Peeing in public

But not all balls on the Italians. The man, who does not want his name to be publicized, shows a video that is increasingly circulating in the WhatsApp groups of Albanians during the day. You can see a Feyenoord fan who beats up a police officer. Hard. The Deputy Mayor, Anuela Ristani, confirms the authenticity of the statues. The violence surprises her less than peeing in public. “We’ve put mobile toilets everywhere, really, rows long, but apparently that’s a thing among supporters, that you pee against buildings.”

But she is an office bearer. Most Albanians experience the final differently. They do not see it in the least as an appetizer for the Champions League final, next Saturday in Paris. This Conference League final is the best that has happened to Albania in living memory. “Perhaps only the arrival of the Scorpions in 1996 came close,” says Olsi Avdija (43). Elvis Toci (52): “This is the best thing since we knocked down the statue of the dictator.” That was in February 1991. Toci’s wife Edlira (47) corrects him. “This is better. Because we don’t destroy anything here. Here we prove that we can organize something. Make something. Something positive.”

Her husband agrees with her. “Today Albania has become part of Europe. This is the most beautiful day for Albania ever.” The deputy mayor doesn’t want to go that far just yet. “I’m not comfortable until the last plane has left.”