“THEthe future of a people lies in its young people”, it is customary to say. As far as the Arab world is concerned, we could point out that the future lies very much here in the hands of its young women. The same Muslim women who in some countries are forced to fight daily for their freedom, risking their lives, in Saudi Arabia are gaining greater independence every year. Starting from the way in which to express oneself through fashion.
After all, few things are capable of doing so like fashion capture and guide the evolution of a societythe Arabian peninsula is no exception.
In Saudi Arabia the change in society is palpable. Just think that until 2019 the holiest of the Arab countries it wasn’t even open to non-religious tourism, and today instead women are free to choose how to dress and whether or not to wear the veil. A very rapid change that has no intention of stopping, and that march briskly towards the objective described in the “Saudi Vision 2030“. The year Saudi modernization will be complete in the prince’s vision Mohammed bin Salman (38 years old). An economic revolution, but also a cultural one.
Why Riyadh Fashion Week
The goal of “Saudi Vision 2030” is to reduce Saudi Arabia’s dependence on oil and diversify the country’s economy by developing the public service and tertiary sectors. And fashion it is one of those on which the State has decided to focus to grow economically, but it is also a model of expression of Saudi culture.
For promote this sector and support creatives, a special “Fashion Commission” was created in 2020 which in its first 2 years of life worked to bring Saudi fashion to Europe, with fashion shows and shows in Paris and Milan. This year he organized its first Fashion Week.
If countries like Qatar or the Emirates had already started investing in fashion brands and fashion events with an international scope, it is however therehe first time that an Arab country has set up a real fashion week entirely dedicated to local talents. The first Riad Fashion Week, which was held in capital of Saudi Arabia between 20 and 23 October 2023with 15 fashion shows gave voice and space to 29 Saudi designers, which are at 70% women, aged between 70 and 25. Independent, strong and determined women to conquer the fashion market.
A model of the brand “Kaf by Kaf” by designer Kawthar Alhoraish inspired by the tradition of the desert shows at Riyadh Fashion Week 2023. This designer was chosen for her creations by stars such as Alicia Keys. Photo: Riyadh Fashion Week.
A fashion week with clear ideas
But who do these stylists design for? What kind of clothes are paraded in a country where women cover their heads with veils and wear the abaya (the traditional dress that covers the body)? The answer comes by itself simply by looking around.
First of all, as we were saying, for two years the veil has become an individual choice. There are those who wear it covering their entire face, those who only wear their hair, those who have a light one that barely covers their head and those who instead proudly show off shiny hair. And then theabaya is nothing more than a light overcoat to wear over clothes. So elegant in some cases that it’s hard to resist not buying one. The only restrictions that remain culturally are those to possibly cover the arms up to the elbow and the legs up to the knee. More as a matter of respect than fear of repercussions. So much so Models suitable for any latitude paraded on the catwalkhowever united by a strong cultural component.
A model by designer Arwa Al Banawi. Photo: Riyadh Fashion Week
Ashi Studio guest star at Riyadh Fashion Week
Riyadh Fashion Week is here opened with an impressive show by stylist Ashi, the best known Saudi designer internationally. Usually walking the Haute Couture catwalks in Paris, he created an ad hoc collection for the occasion. Immersed in a lunar atmosphereinside the courtyard of the imposing King Farhad Librarythe models walked alternately couture garments to refined evening ensembles.
The following days were instead dedicated to creations Couture, Women’s ready-to-wear And Ready-to-wear man. Knowing that, as he explained to us Burak Cakmak CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission, this fashion week was mainly aimed at the local marketwe were still impressed by some designers that we would see well dressing women around the world.
The best of Riyadh Fashion Week 2023
From a sociological point of view, all the brands that have taken turns on the catwalk (you can see them in the gallery) deserve further investigation. From a purely fashion point of view, however, only some of these designers have demonstrated the potential to also interest the international market. Let’s see who they are.
The first is definitely Abadiaa brand sustainable and minimalistwhich incorporates traditional elements in a contemporary way and which it is already possible to purchase all over the world through the Net a Porter online shopping platform. The clothes are fluid, the top quality materials come from Italy and Korea, and waste is reduced to a minimum. A brand that presents itself as timeless and that we see well on every woman.
A detail of the “Abadia” collection presented at the first Riad Fashion Week. The brand started selling on this month Net a Porter internationally. Photo: Riyadh Fashion Week
Another brand that has shown on the catwalk and has already attracted international attention is Kaf by Kaf. Designer Kawthar Alhoraish incorporates very characterizing traditional elements, re-proposing them in an original way And contemporaryas he did with the printing of traditional carpets on impalpable silk overcoats (or abayas). Also chosen by Alicia Keys. His latest collection alternates playful garments, with crocheted fruits, with elaborate fabric work and rope embroidery.
Promising and original is the vision of Samar Nasraldinwhich playing with cuts and seams dismantles traditional clothes, giving them a unique look architectural structure that best marries the curves of the female body. At just 34 years old, his mission is to instill novelty and originality in the wardrobe of self-confident women over 30. How could you not love her?
The brand is undoubtedly worth keeping an eye on The Dropped Collection by Salma Bandar. An ultra-sustainable and modern brand based in New York, where cotton reigns supreme. Two collections a year for timeless pieces that can be combined infinitely because this brand fights the superfluous and waste by offering “only what is essential and nothing more”.
A very promising first edition, which suggests a prosperous and interesting future for this emerging market in the fashion scene. We just have to keep our eyes open and see what happens now. Waiting for 2030.
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