The European Commission published an updated Waste Framework Directive (WFR) on Wednesday, which focuses on textile waste li
The proposed new waste rules aim to support separate collection of textile waste, which will be mandatory in the EU from 2025.
The EU Commission proposes the introduction of binding and harmonized extended producer responsibility (EPR) systems for textiles in all EU member states.
This would mean that manufacturers would bear the costs of managing textile waste, which the Commission believes would encourage them to reduce waste and increase the circularity of textile products.
The move aims to “accelerate the development of the separate collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of textiles sector in the EU, in line with the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles”.
“This legislative proposal is an important step towards a more sustainable and circular textile sector, implementing our pioneering textile strategy,” said Virginijus Sinkevičius, Commissioner for Environment, Oceans and Fisheries. “EU-wide harmonized rules for extended producer responsibility will create a level playing field in the internal market and ensure the application of the polluter pays principle.”
He said the initiative will also drive investment in reuse and recycling infrastructure, create local jobs that spur innovation and allow buyers of vintage or timeless fashion to save money over fast fashion.
The Changing Markets Foundation, a sustainable economy and whistleblowing organization, welcomed the proposal but said the directive didn’t go far enough.
Missed Chance
While the proposal promotes circular textile technologies such as fiber-to-fiber recycling, it is a “missed opportunity” as it “does not include specific targets for reuse and recycling, which could limit its impact”.
This will “undermine burgeoning initiatives that prioritize reuse and recycling over outright downcycling or incineration, delaying the much-needed shift towards a circular economy,” according to the Changing Markets Foundation.
Urska Trunk, the organisation’s campaign manager, said: “We welcome this proposal as it is the first time that fashion brands will be forced to pay for their role in the growing waste crisis. However, the European Commission has set a target of reuse and waste Failing to recycle textiles, stifling innovation in Europe and failing to put the fashion industry on a circular path.”
However, the Changing Markets Foundation added that the proposal represents a “much needed step” by emphasizing the importance of proper sorting.
“This approach is particularly important given our recent research, which shows that 20 to 50 percent of used clothing exported to Africa is waste that ends up in landfills or is incinerated,” it said.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.com