From February 5th to 8th, Berlin Fashion Week brought the European fashion scene to the German capital. Over four days, both emerging and established brands presented their creations at a total of 32 events, from intimate presentations to exuberant catwalk shows that defined the Berlin scene.
Avant-garde was the main theme, reflected in such unique creations as sweaters made of dog hair and a diverse casting that was intended to reflect the diversity of the city of Berlin and show German consumers that this clothing, dominated by the color black, was also suitable for them.
FashionUnited reviews some of the event’s most outstanding presentations.
Artistry and extravagance, with Kanye West in the front row
The first day was dominated by the fashion show of William Fan, who chose the imposing Olympic Stadium as the backdrop for the presentation of his “Off Duty” collection, with which he tried to “go beyond clothes” by presenting a simple but structured collection , which is intended for everyone. An idea that the designer underlined by selecting many of his models “directly from the streets of Berlin”.
Brand kicked off with a collection made up of circular textiles, some of which are made in Germany, an hour away from the studio, allowing the designer to personally oversee the processes. The cost of this attention to detail is reflected, for example, in the outerwear, which costs 990 euros.
As this is the brand’s second collection and first foray into the wholesale market, the designer has undertaken deep introspection to define his identity. This is embodied in the collection by incorporating characteristic elements of folklore, French Baroque and Renaissance paintings and Bavarian shepherds. The aim is to reinterpret these elements, improve the craftsmanship and apply them to streetwear with an eye on the future.
Anonymous Club caused a lot of talk on the first day, not only because of the extravagance of its collection, but also because of the presence in the front row of the controversial Kanye West, who, although he tried, did not go unnoticed.
Ukrainian brands, French elegance and queer provocation
Ukrainian brands were well represented at the event. Designer Dzhus used the runway to tell her personal story, using her traumas as a starting point. Her show was a direct evolution of her personal experiences, with the garments transforming under her hands, symbolizing the exploration and overcoming of difficult emotions. The models presented themselves impeccably, and as far as beauty goes, this collection was one of the most lavish.
The young Berlin brand Handerlump made a good impression with a collection sponsored by the courier service DHL. Models strutted down a silver runway, splashing water and showcasing clothing with experimental silhouettes, impeccable craftsmanship and high-quality deadstock materials.
Odely Teboul presented the collection for her brand Lou de Bètoly in the empty rooms of the former Habitat furniture store on Potsdamer Platz. Inspired by classic elegance and the seductive power of lingerie, the collection combined vintage materials such as leather and mohair with recycled nylon fabrics and wool spun from recycled dog hair that could be worn by Beyoncé herself, as has been done with other garments by the French designer case was.
Lou de Bètoly stood out for her artisanal approach, transforming used materials into exceptional luxury pieces, some of which can cost up to 2000 euros, such as an exclusive dog fur sweater.
The designer is aware of the lack of diversity in her model selection and aims to take this into account in future collections. She only works with made-to-measure pieces as her techniques take into account the uniqueness of each body and are practically created around it, strictly adapting to each person’s measurements. This would mean starting the selection of models practically a year in advance when the collection is created, which is not easy given the fast pace of the industry.
The big question is why not show in Paris, her hometown and the birthplace of fashion? In addition to her long-term residence in Berlin, where she landed with another project thanks to fashion, she has found great support in the Fashion Council of Germany, which promotes her work.
“Paws away” is the name of Namilia’s collection, which was eagerly awaited by fans of the brand on Tuesday evening. Inspired by medieval armor, military looks and glamorous trash, Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li showed looks that provocatively addressed the hatred against queer people who move courageously in public spaces.
Back to schoolone size fits all and recycled fashion
SF1OG stood out as the clear favorite of the third day, with the label presenting a nostalgic collection that transported the audience back in time by moving its fashion show to a school gymnasium. Sitting on school desks, the audience watched as models walked around a makeshift classroom with backpacks, iPods and even a Bravo magazine.
Second place on the winner’s podium of the day went to the Lueder brand, which wanted to use its collection to reflect the idea that everyone is a hero in everyday life. Influenced by the designer’s past in the world of tailoring, she managed to transfer her knowledge of the profession into streetwear, creating stretchy, one-size-fits-all garments that hug the body no matter what size you are.
Germany is not the main market for this designer, who wants to see more continuity over the years while her brand is still going through an introspective process that appeals more to buyers in Korea and Japan. According to the designer, they are more likely to get carried away when they like something and “no one else” is wearing it.
When choosing her models, she wanted to focus on showing the diversity of Berlin as a city in order to make it clear to German customers that these clothes were also intended for them.
It is a collection with garments of up to one and a half kilos of mohair that would cost 1,100 euros, with around 30 reproductions per piece, based on the volume of pre-orders, some of which are around 50 pieces. The shoes from her collection were some of the most talked-about pieces of the week and fit “like a glove.”
Ukrainian designer Plngns also earned a spot in this selection by presenting a collection of looks designed exclusively from recycled and upcycled materials, which included hundreds of sneakers.
Second-hand fashion has always been part of his country’s culture, not so much in the sense of sustainability, but because of the difficult economic realities that it had to contend with even before the conflict it now faces. This has always made him explore these stores and consider them as an ideal source to satisfy his creative thirst.
Four days full of fashion
Avenir performed gracefully on the final day. The collection skilfully played with the interplay of hot and cold in the form of knitted looks, patchwork jackets and denim designs. There were also decorations that imitated singed materials.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.es. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.