THERetinol is among the most used and known active ingredients in cosmetics and is among the most recommended ingredients in anti-aging treatments, for the skin of the face but also for the eye contour. Its particular composition, in fact, allows it to act in depth, regenerating skin cells.
Retinol: how the most powerful anti-aging works
This ingredient acts on several fronts: «Retinol has a exfoliating effectpromotes cell turnover, helps reduce the visibility of wrinkles on the surface and at the dermal level increases the production of elastin and collagen» explains the Dr. Camilla D’Antonio, scientific director of Miamo.
In other words, retinol performs multiple functions at once as stimulates the production of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid so as to keep the skin compact and hydrated, while its exfoliating action gives brightness to the skin.
Retinol’s powerful anti-ageing action has made it one of the most popular active ingredients (Instagram/@cindycrawford)
There is retinol and retinol
But retinol is not all the same: «The greatest difference is between retinoic acid and retinoltwo types of molecules that have different actions and act at different times. Retinoic acid, also called tretinoin, is the acid form of vitamin A. It is a molecule widely used in the pharmacological field under medical prescription, with a faster action, but with an invasive action. For this reason it is necessary to carefully study the percentage of use according to each case.
Retinol, on the other hand, is more suitable for cosmetic use, especially if accompanied by moisturizing principles that balance the action. For visible results, an application for a long period is required, generally from 6 to 9 months »explains the expert.
Yes, even for the eye area
Despite its multitasking action, many still hesitate to use retinol for the eye area: «In fact, there are many people who are afraid to use it on the eye area, considering it too aggressive for the area. It’s actually not like that. Studies have shown that retinol is essential in the treatment of wrinkles in the periocular areathe most sensitive and delicate of the face» explains the expert.
Used neat or gradually released, retinol acts not only by smoothing the eye area but also against cellular degeneration and the appearance of free radicals. In fact, it defends the skin from damage caused by UV rays, by exogenous factors, i.e. the foreign environment, and by those caused by endogenous aging, i.e. natural and often genetically transmitted.
How to use it?
In general, retinol must be applied at a particular time of the year, from September and throughout the winter season: «It is applied in the evening during the usual beauty routine, possibly continuing throughout the autumn and winter season and suspending it in the summer period. During the treatment, an SPF50 sunscreen should be applied the next morning because retinol is photosensitizing».
Also, for a first period the experts they recommend using it two to three times a weekso as to leave the area a few days of rest between one treatment and another.
The latest generation of retinol is often encapsulated and time-released so as not to irritate the epidermis and be sweeter.
Contraindications: beware of vitamin C
Are there any particular contraindications in using this ingredient? «I advise only not to spread it on the mobile eyelid e do not use it together with vitamin C. In fact, it is better to use the latter in the morning and retinol in the evening. If the skin is too dry during the treatment, a few drops of moisturizing serum can be added to compensate. Conversely, if the skin is too oily, retinol can be rolled up to four times per week» concludes the expert.
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