Retinol: how to use it, for whom, skincare contraindications

Di here or there: lThe use of retinol (vitamin A) has always been divisive, fueling the debate between those who look at this powerful exfoliant with a certain distrust and those who, instead, support it without hesitation. The reason, it goes without saying, lies somewhere in the middle and, as always in these cases, depends on common sense. There are few contraindications, but caution is needed.

Retinol, pros, cons and for whom

There is a lot of confusion. «It is not uncommon for patients, even very young ones, to ask me if they can use this vitamin. And my answer, except in extreme cases such as the presence of particularly aggressive acne, is always no.” Doctor Eleonora Bellani, a surgeon specializing in dermatology and venereology, has no doubts. Clear? Retinol should generally be avoided under the age of 35. The reason is implicit in its specific cosmetic action.

Once in contact with the skin, it exfoliates it stimulating the growth of new cells which, “pushing” to rise to the surfacetake the place of the old ones, accelerating their turnover and relaunching the production of collagen and elastin. The effect is lightening and anti-aging. But in your twenties, turnover doesn’t need to be stimulated.

When to use it, day or evening?

Creating a superficial thinning, the substance makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays exposing it to the risk of irritation. For the same reason it is recommended to start treatment with cream or serum around September until March, always protecting yourself with SPF 50 during daylight hours.

«These are general indications. After the age of 50/55, when the aim is for an anti-aging action to reduce microwrinkles and skin thickening, if the active ingredient is well tolerated it can actually continue for up to six months. The practice is to do a couple of three-month cycles interspersed with about ten days of suspension» continues the specialist.

It is essential to start gradually, even in the case of skin that is not particularly delicate. It takes time to see results, at least 15/20 days. Better to stop and contact a dermatologist if irritation persists.

The advice: combine it with hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid moisturizer is de rigueur and should be applied either before or after to soften the exfoliating action of the molecule, giving comfort to the skin and reducing unwanted effects. In the evening, after cleansing, apply retinol initially every other day. As a further precaution, you could preliminarily spread the cosmetic on the inside of the forearm a couple of times and observe the reaction.

In the absence of a dispenser that regulates its delivery, take a small quantity on your fingertip. Don’t overdo it. Retinol should also be stopped graduallyfollowing the same procedure.

What not to combine it with

All alpha-hydroxy acids should be avoided (salicylic, glycolic, mandelic, lactic, etc.) which in turn accelerate cell turnover, to avoid the risk of excessive stimulation. Yes, however, to vitamin C. «The two ingredients should not be overlapped, but alternated to also intervene on skin blemishes and discolorations. The retinol applied in the evening, stimulating renewal, prepares the epidermis for the action of the ascorbic acid to be used in the morning to protect from sun damage” points out Bellani.

What if something goes wrong? There are two variables to keep an eye on: excessive dryness and redness. «It is very rare to feel a burning sensation, but rather that the skin is too tight, stinging or irritated on the surface. In this case it is better to suspend for two/three days and start again” continues the dermatologist. «The new forms of retinol have a controlled release, therefore designed to be well tolerated even in the case of sensitive and dry-prone skin».

Vegetable and synthetic, which one to choose

Is plant-based retinol “kinder”? «It depends on the formula, its active ingredients and their bioavailability, that is, by the ability to be immediately absorbed at the skin level. The synthetic one has now become as soft as the natural one, extracted from plants, so much so that it is also suitable for sensitive or very dry skin” concludes the expert.

Some retinol specialties are also specifically formulated for the eye and lip contour. Therefore, the belief that it could be harmful in the most sensitive areas must be dispelled. The only precaution: avoid applying it on the mobile eyelid.

The word to the expert

The new forms of vitamin A are stabilized, encapsulated and progressively released while maintaining their effectiveness on cell turnover intact. Giulia Penazzi, cosmetologist and scientific communicator, provides us with a small guide to get to know them better. And use them (only after the age of 35).

What is meant by retinoids?

They are a group of chemical compounds all deriving from vitamin A, which also includes retinol. Despite having a common origin, they possess different characteristics. The group also includes, among others, retinoic acid, which only the doctor can prescribe due to its particularly “aggressive” action, and other substances for cosmetic use such as retinaldehyde, and retinol palmitate and acetate.

What they all have in common is the fact that once conveyed to the skin they are transformed into retinoic acid, the active form of the active ingredient, thanks to skin enzymes. In retinol palmitate and acetate this conversion is slower, therefore they are more delicate but also less effective, while in the case of retinaldehyde, three times more powerful than retinol, it is decidedly faster.

The stimulation of retinoids leads to an acceleration of epidermal cell turnover – essentially bringing younger and “brighter” cells to the surface – and a wrinkle-correcting effect that deeply revitalizes, attenuating wrinkles and blemishes, while the texture becomes more uniform and radiant.

The substance counteracts photoaging, aging linked to UV radiation, but is strongly reactive to the sun and should be avoided during the day to avoid irritation. At the skin level, retinol performs different functions compared to the systemic ones, where it intervenes in the development of bones, in the growth of teeth and in regulating the body’s immune response.
Sources of vitamin A come from the animal kingdom: mainly eggs, milk, liver, fish oil.

Are there herbal alternatives to retinol?

Yes, we have had for some time very interesting green active ingredients extracted from herbaceous plants such as Bidens pilosa and Psoralea corylifolia, the latter also known as Babchi. They have an effectiveness comparable to that of retinoids produced in the laboratory, they are well tolerated and free of those side effects, such as excessive dryness or irritation, which now tend to be rather rare even in the case of synthetics.

The first, in particular, is very versatile, specific for the eye contour and can also be used during pregnancy. Furthermore, it is antioxidant and soothing, visibly reduces expression lines, evens out skin tone and also restores hydration to chapped lips.

Bakuchiol, anti-aging and anti-acne, is extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, which, just like synthetic retinoids, intervenes on collagen and extracellular matrix enzymes. In any case, we are talking about substances that should be added to the beauty routine no earlier than the age of 40, the results of which are generally visible after two/three weeks. By gradually inserting and discontinuing them.

What are the recommended cosmetic dosages?

Being one fat-soluble vitamin, therefore potentially subject to accumulation in the body, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety has indicated the maximum percentages for safe use: 0.3 percent in facial products (equal to 24 percent of the maximum tolerable intake levels) and 0.05 percent in those for the body (equal to 20 percent of the maximum tolerable intake levels). In the second case the dosage is more diluted due to the greater extension of the surface to be treated.

The percentages have been calculated so that they are very well tolerated even in the case of sensitive skin. The fact that retinol is often found at the bottom of the list of ingredients should therefore not be surprising, nor should it lead one to believe that it is not very active. Far from it.

Since this is a recommendation and not an obligation, companies have the right to decide how to regulate themselves, which is why it is possible to come across specialties where the substance is present at one percent or even in higher quantities. In some cases it is incorporated into cosmetics in the form of liposomes, small lipid vesicles that improve transport at the skin level, thus also ensuring gradual release, slower absorption and, therefore, greater tolerability. Being a fat-soluble vitamin, it is however well assimilated by the skin even without the possible contribution of these carriers.

For its versatility it is not uncommon to find retinol in formulas that combine moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramics and other functional ingredients enhanced by comfortable and immediately absorbed textures.

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