A report published in late November by the environmental organization Stand.earth brings to light alarming findings about the fashion industry’s reliance on biomass fuels as a supposedly “green” alternative to coal and other fossil fuels.
The report, called “Biomass Burning: The Fashion Industry’s False Phase-Out,” shows that major global fashion companies are hindering the industry’s transition to true renewable energy sources such as wind or solar, even though sustainable practices are urgently needed in the face of the escalating climate crisis.
Biomass is defined as non-fossil and biodegradable organic material that can come from plants, animals and microorganisms. According to the report, it is being positioned by the fashion industry as an alternative to fossil fuels or as a preferred means of accounting for carbon emissions reductions within supply chains.
The biomass obtained from sources such as wood granules, crop residues, rice husks, straw, bagasse and palm shells is burned to generate thermal energy, which is crucial for various fabric finishing processes. With many manufacturing companies looking to phase out coal as a fuel, the introduction of biomass-powered boilers is seen by the industry as a quick and cost-effective transition plan.
“There is no such thing as sustainable biomass”
However, the report highlights that contrary to claims portraying biomass as “sustainable” and “green”, it carries inherent risks and harms. It undermines climate stability while also having “devastating” impacts on the health of supply chain workers and their communities.
“The bottom line is that there is no such thing as ‘sustainable biomass’. The increasing reliance on biomass fuels poses a serious threat to our climate, ecosystems and human health, while hindering the industry’s necessary transition to renewable energy in Asia,” said Xixi Zhang, Stand.earth researcher and lead author of the report a message.
The analysis looks at the practices of several global fashion companies and shows that they rely heavily on biomass in their supply chains. While major brands claim that biomass fuel is clean and sustainable, the report cannot back this up. Stand.earth informed major brands such as Fast Retailing, Gap, H&M, Inditex, Nike and Puma of the findings and urged them to reconsider their use of biomass. So far only one brand – Fast Retailing – has responded with a commitment.