Frankfurt Fashion Week started on Sunday evening – opened by Réne Storck’s Resort 2023 collection, which was shown in the Frankfurt Stock Exchange.
Born in Frankfurt, he founded his label of the same name in 2003. Equipped with a tailor’s apprenticeship, the designer gradually began to implement his visions. It was always about “the highest quality and only to be processed and produced in Germany,” says the designer as he looks back on his career. For a long time, the threads were pulled away from the public eye, the custom-made products are created in the designer’s studio. A few years later, the entry into the Frankfurt fashion scene follows: Storck opens its first and only flagship – only two doors away from the studio.
The last show of the designer took place three and a half years ago. “For us it was clear: with our small structures, the effort to present under Corona conditions would simply have taken too much strength and energy to concentrate on the creative.” Nevertheless, Storck sees positive things in the forced break, because the last two years have enabled the designer and his team to go in depth and research. “We were able to rethink things and sometimes leave them as they are – you will definitely see that tonight,” Storck told FashionUnited shortly before the show. “I’m happy to show tonight where we stand – also in terms of content”.
A coming together of business, politics and fashion
It’s hot on Sunday evening in the Main metropolis, the sandstone-colored building of the stock exchange shimmers in the heat, guests are waiting in the archway in front of it. It’s quiet backstage – the final arrangements are being made in a large hall with high ceilings and crystal glass lights. Between the models, make-up tables and silver clothes rails stands Storck in a white shirt, black pants and leather loafers.
The designer tells FashionUnited about the importance of the setting: “I’ve long fought to convey that creativity and fashion design are real economic drivers and that strong designers with strong visions are a great asset to the economy.”
Charging the stock market as a symbol for global trade with the emotional energy of a parade is intended to make it clear that fashion has a strong economic potential that is not yet sufficiently recognized in Germany and that needs to be promoted. With the show in the stock exchange, Storck and the Fashion Council Germany, which took over the organization, show what is possible when industries combine. Frankfurt’s role is clear: the city is home to “a very fashion-conscious, internationally informed and visually trained audience that works with high standards on their wardrobes. That makes Frankfurt special,” says Storck.
Despite his strong vision, the designer works without leitmotifs. “It’s a pure vision – a visual thought,” says Storck. His vision is based on the significance of the scenery and the symbolic power of the connection between business and fashion – music, clothing and atmosphere are reflected in his inner eye. Storck remains true to its approach with this collection as well: Concentration on harmonious proportions, high-quality materials, sophisticated cutting technique.
The show was made possible by a small team of specialists: shoemakers, bag makers, tailors specializing in certain qualities. Storck himself is most involved in the pattern development – for him the development on the tailor’s dummy is “the immediate creation”.
Minimalist opulence
The trading floor of the stock exchange fills up. The walnut-colored parquet stands in contrast to the black computers, which are set up close together in semicircles. In the background: scoreboards with share prices and securities information. White tubes hang from the black-paneled walls, immersing the hall in a glistening neon light. It’s daylight. A whoosh streams out of the loudspeakers, then ‘Cornfield Chase’ from the film Interstellar sounds. The first models appear. They walk slowly, with sluggish steps. Silent, somewhat remote controlled. Only her leather sandals make noises on the parquet floor.
The symbol of the stock exchange is clearly reflected in the 30 looks of the collection: clear lines, flowing silhouettes and a cool elegance. The cuts appear calculated and controlled – similar to the securities that are traded here day in and day out. The silhouettes are straight, but still caress the body, the forms are dignified. A slight opulence resonates in the minimalist designs. The colors are muted, the looks put together tonally. White with cream, black with dark grey, a few olive and navy blue pieces mixed in.
Trousers and long skirts in woven fabric and leather are paired with cashmere tops, white shirt collars peek out from under dark coats. The formality of classic trousers breaks with the functional character of coated jackets, flared skirts harmonize with the purism of buttoned shirts.
Accessories that are used sparingly but all the more carefully round off the looks – wallets that are held in the hand or wrapped around the waist underline the business look, some models wear rectangular shoulder bags. A black shirt looks as if a tie has been integrated into the lapel – stylistic allusion takes on new forms at Storck.
Some looks feature dresses that are suitable for understated evening wear. “We’ve never shown them in this form – it’s the first time that we’re showing such couture-inspired dresses,” says Storck shortly before the show.
After the last model has disappeared behind the white doors, Storck makes his rounds. The applause dies down, the music fades away. But for Storck it goes further: the pre-order is open. The looks will be coming to the Frankfurt store in November, just a few hundred meters from the stock exchange. From October, the collection will be available in the online shop, which is currently being prepared, and from selected retail partners.