Pure London x JATC FW24 trends

The first edition of the opened early on Sunday morning merged British fashion fairs Pure London and Just Around The Corner (JATC) open their doors to fashion professionals. Pure London x JATC was a special event at the Olympia London exhibition center for brands and buyers, who took the opportunity to exchange ideas about the FW24 collections.

Malaïka Ewande, founder of the creative office Vesuvius, opened the trade fair’s seminar program with a presentation entitled ‘AW24 Trend Update: A Tale of Balance and Creativity’, giving a foretaste of the trends of the coming season. In her talk, she mentioned two overarching megatrends and the resulting microtrends that, in her opinion, are about “the balance of creativity.” “Individual expression and new craftsmanship” are combined to inspire the community and bring art back into fashion. FashionUnited has summarized the key topics.

Overstimulated

‘Chaos Dress’

Runway presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: Pure London x JATC.

The ‘Chaos Dress’ microtrend is based on the pursuit of “ultimate individuality” and follows the motto “The shabbier, the better”. Inspired by subcultures and classicism and referencing bygone eras, the aesthetic of this theme focuses heavily on the bold use of textures, ranging from torn materials to functional ruffles.

Pure London x JATC runway show, Feb 2024.
Runway presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: Pure London x JATC.

Child’s play

Pure London x JATC trend runway, Feb 2024.
Trend runway presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: FashionUnited.

“Finding a happy place in the blissful ignorance of childhood” describes the guiding principle of this concept. Unlike previous darker trends in fashion, ‘Child’s Play’ is characterized by its bold use of bold colors and cartoonish, often oversized silhouettes, accentuated by lightweight fabrics. According to Ewande, they are reminiscent of children’s drawings.

Pure London x JATC, Feb 2024.
Pure catwalk presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: Pure London x JATC.

Reformed maximalism

False minimalism

Pure London x JATC trend runway, Feb 2024.
Trend runway presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: Pure London x JATC.

In contrast to the trend of ‘quiet luxury’, which has dominated the past few seasons, ‘false minimalism’ focuses on a more creative and culturally influenced aesthetic that retains the elegance of its predecessor but emphasizes the use of high-quality textiles. Here, Ewande refers to “illusion fabrics,” high-contrast printed knitwear and materials like cashmere and silk, which always convey a feeling of luxury, albeit in a toned-down form.

‘Monster Tailor’

Pure London x JATC trend runway, Feb 2024.
Trend runway presentation at Pure London x JATC. Image: Pure London x JATC.

Regarding this micro-trend, Ewande points to a major shift in tailoring influenced by the spread of a more casual clothing style, with sportswear details and loose cuts becoming more prominent. She emphasizes that this form of tailoring “breaks the boundaries between generations” and moves away from traditional rules. The change is particularly noticeable in the textile sector, because here too, unconventional materials such as velvet and silk are taking on hyper-casual forms.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Heide Halama.

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