The world is trying to return to some sort of “normal” but the contrasts have never been greater, says David Shah. In the lecture “A World Full of Contradictions”, the trend expert presented his view of the current and future situation of fashion. He spoke at the Dutch fair Modefabriek as part of a tightly packed program of lectures, presentations and workshops, which the audience in view of the difficult current situation should inspire.
While Modefabriek’s overarching motto was ‘Together Again’, Shah examined a currently observable trend that is leading people towards an increasingly polarized society. Shah noted that while the world is trying to come together to return to some sort of post-Cold War ‘normal’, the contrasts have never been greater. In everything from politics to economics, Shah said, there are very different viewpoints and few people in the middle.
Suppliers are the key to the challenges of the middle class
This phenomenon is also being felt in the fashion industry, Shah said, as people are turning to either mass-market brands or high-end labels, leaving mid-tier retailers struggling to adapt to changing demand. Shah emphasized that much of the potential decline in the mid-market segment is due to who factories prioritize. Many retailers in this market rely on delivery operations based in Europe, which face an inevitable price hike due to inflation. This means retailers are struggling with the question of where to produce if they don’t want to look outside of Europe. “The key to the future is the supply operations,” added Shah. “Control your supply chain, control your margin”
Also, a large part of this trend can be linked to the ‘new constituency’ who, according to Shah, are rich and/or young. Their influence can be seen in the continued rise of fast fashion, where Gen Z is a big part of the market, or in the new strategies of luxury brands trying to appeal to younger audiences with a message tailored to them – like Tiffany, for example & Co. by appointing Blackpink’s Beyoncé and Rosé as brand ambassadors.
DIY and Regenerative Society
With this young clientele comes a new understanding of community, centered around a sense of neo-collectivism and collaboration. Shah said this has led to a boost in different areas, such as DIY, which gained popularity during the pandemic and gave people the opportunity to experiment with their clothes in a sustainable way. Shah added that resale and vintage are also linked to this new trend and he doesn’t think they will go away due to the volume of clothing available.
Another eco-friendly trend addressed was ‘regenerative sustainability’, which puts nature at the forefront of creation. With numerous brands using mushrooms as part of their manufacturing process, Shah hinted that this dependence on nature will only increase as new design methods are introduced to strengthen the connection to nature. He also talked about the potential of merging nature with the Metaverse to bring the real world to the web.
Making the metaverse more human
A tech-centric perspective is something that cannot be avoided, Shah continued, as more innovation emerges and new opportunities emerge. However, as technology and the metaverse continue to grow and it is still uncertain what the future holds for this space, Shah spoke about a number of ways brands are humanizing the online world, for example by engaging our senses. These experiences, he added, will build upon an inevitable phygital future through which we are likely to see an increasing blurring between the real and unreal worlds.
To implement these changes, brands are choosing to hire more and more workers with technical backgrounds rather than creative backgrounds to lead the way in virtual reality. But the understanding of what people will want in this new environment is still unclear. While some are already reaping the effects of technology in the real world – Bottega Veneta’s digital green hue is an example of this – others are more drawn to the nostalgic experience, with Shah stressing that there are still distinct areas to explore.
Fashion trends collide
While some brands are embracing this version of nostalgia in the form of 2000s clothing and classic sportswear, others are taking a new direction. They bet on collections that reflect the downfall of nature and are expressed in avant-garde, apocalyptic fashion intended to highlight the problems of society. Meanwhile, the boundaries of luxury are beginning to blur. Brands are jumping from extreme glamor and maximalist wardrobes characterized by sequins and dopamine dressing, to an emphasis on basics and versatile products that prioritize comfort in an increasingly work-from-home society.
This mentality is also reflected in modernized sportswear, as shown by Jacquemus’ collaboration with Nike, which gives sportswear a trendy twist. Likewise, some brands are promoting a new sense of body-friendliness with inclusive garments that encourage people to take control of their own bodies, something Shah says will only be emphasized more in the coming seasons.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ