For the Première Vision fabrics fair, autumn/winter 23/24 is marked by an environmentally conscious season full of leather looks that, thanks to innovative processing, are free of any classicism.
Performance, sophistication, craftsmanship: the semantic palette used by the Première Vision sourcing platform to describe the Fall/Winter 23/24 season is built around a distinctly contemporary register. The leather industry is far from letting the fans of leather bashing take the butter off its bread. Instead, she is doubling down on her inventiveness to not only position herself as a champion of sustainability and the circular economy (no, animals aren’t raised for their leather, the industry is a reminder), but also to be at the forefront of fashion trends.
Rediscovery of contentment
This season, she demonstrates this with proposals that vigorously distance themselves from any classicism. The first trend revolves around what the Première Vision team calls a rediscovery of frugality: this trend that gives leather a rustic look. This is done by exploring all the nuances and structures of sediments, rocks and other stones. It requires meticulously sophisticated treatments: the surfaces are velvety, the finishes are wrinkled and the shiny is metalized to evoke lead or tin.
Gentleness that sometimes borders on regression
The second trend is characterized by a desire for gentleness, sometimes bordering on backwards. Dubbed Luxe Candice, this direction is expressed in malleable leather, described as creamy, and fur, defined by show teams as playful. The desire for softness and lightness remains luxurious.
Classic, hand finishing and matting
The third trend highlights classic types of leather. However, this season they are worked with hand finishes and decorations that transport them to the present time, especially thanks to a matting that transports them to a more technical environment. These classic references are revisited through geometric grains, rubbery aspects and innovative decorations.
A total look of leather
According to the fair, these proposals aim to conquer the fashion industry with silhouettes that dare to approach leather looks from head to toe. In it, coats and jackets are presented as masterpieces that use processing of wool that imitates fur. These coats and jackets are inspired by the leisure world. Teddy fur is reinterpreted with lamb and sheepskins with animal or geometric motifs, while shavings offer moiré effects reminiscent of astrakhan, tiger or leopard skins. These chic tops are paired with slouchy pants that are adorned with tie waists, large pockets and pronounced pleats. Premiere Vision predicts that ready-to-wear will adopt the attributes of leather goods through lighter weights, visible grains, refined sheen and patina.
Last but not least, the fair emphasizes the spirit of environmental responsibility that is said to animate the leather industry. The sourcing platform reminds that the responsible processing of leather is essential at every stage of the value chain, from the farm, which relies on traceability, ensures the origin of the hides and measures the welfare of the animals, through to the tanning stages, Retanning and finishing, more than ever based on the strictest environmental management criteria. These criteria aim to reduce the impact of water, energy, gas emissions, chemicals and waste.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ