From today at the Fair in Florence, fashion for next summer. Lightness, resistance and upcycling: the keywords for him
Curtain raised on the 104th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, the event dedicated to men’s fashion for Spring-Summer 2024 which, from today to Friday 16, will animate Florence and, more specifically, its Fortezza da Basso. The appointment is one of the key ones to discover the novelties of the 825 brands present (in growth compared to the historically strongest winter appointment). But eyes focused on the trends to come, for those who want to go shopping today thinking about what will work well next year too.
Protagonists
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As per tradition, the review brings together proposals that are more translatable into everyday life, the big names that gravitate around – specifically Fendi, which will open the doors of its factory that has just been inaugurated in Bagno di Ripoli for a special fashion show – and niche brands, such as for example the Californian Erl by Eli Russell Linnetz, protagonist of a special event. All orchestrated by the Pitti team, led by the new board of directors and by the still recently appointed president, Antonio De Matteis, who complements his role as CEO of Kiton. But how is the air blowing between the stands in terms of trends on this first day of the fair? “After years in which perhaps we limited ourselves to covering up, now the desire to dress up is returning”, explains Antonio Cristaudo, commercial and development director of Pitti, tireless selector of brands. “The fact is that there is a return to elegance. There has been a swerve towards chic which is very transversal, because this desire for more refined clothing is not limited only to an adult public”. In fact, it is also the boys who build a refined look, although very different from the risky digressions seen in the Florentine Fortress in the pre-pandemic era. “We are not talking about formal in its most classic sense of jacket and tie, but not even about the T-shirts with a thousand colorful writings that have captured so much attention in recent seasons. What emerges is a natural, spontaneous, aware elegance, which then everyone is naturally free to interpret on the basis of their own inclinations”.
Advances
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What we will find in the summer 2024 boutiques, and which we can begin to glimpse among the collections now on sale, is a clean, timeless silhouette, where two concepts that are now essential for the sector play a significant role: durability of the garments and, as far as possible, the upcycling of materials. The other aspect to take into great consideration today is lightness: “Climate change and the rediscovered dynamism of our lives require unstructured garments, even better if they can be machine washed and no longer need to be ironed in order to thus reduce the environmental impact”. underlines Cristaudo again.
Inspirations
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In short, it is better to prefer “clothes for life” to extravagance, garments that will accompany us over time. «Today it is better to focus on a slightly oversized jacket, perhaps double-breasted, or on the super versatile jacket-shirt. Underneath, the classic T-shirt still works, but this time with long sleeves, and in this case to be combined with soft trousers, also with pleats, or Bermuda shorts, preferably ribbed. As for the colours, I’d stick to the light tones of gray and beige, to be alternated with blue and brushstrokes of emerald green. As for shoes, no-frills loafers beat sneakers this time around. And then there’s the backpack, which wins over everything». For those who are looking for models to imitate, the singers are the best dressed of the moment: “The style of Blanco and Gianmaria represents the perfect synthesis of this mood. But Marco Mengoni and Mahmood are also two really interesting subjects”.
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