Fashion doesn’t just take place in some aesthetic parallel universe, but always in front of the panorama of social realities. The trend towards ultra-dystopian looks, which will determine fashion in 2022, could therefore be seen as a textile embodiment of the general mood. In the wake of Corona, the desertification of Germany, the flood disasters in Pakistan and Kentucky and Putin’s attack on Ukraine, that’s not so great.
Let’s review: In 2022 there were the hyper-catastrophic productions of the Balenciaga shows, where Demna sent his models like refugees through Siberian snowstorms, sometimes through black mudslides. There were luxury garbage bag-style handbags, again from Balenciaga, which was probably meant ironically – but people who really can’t stuff their stuff into plastic bags when they’re fleeing might not find it so funny.
It’s about “the idea that optimism is uncool and doesn’t reflect our time”
The “Guardian” calls the whole thing “Dystopia Core” and has a trend researcher draw parallels to the ragged looks of the punks of the 70s: According to Geraldine Wharry, it is about “the idea that optimism is uncool and does not reflect our time”. . In other words: if fashion is reminiscent of the costumes from “Dune”, “Matrix Resurrections” or “Mad Max” and also of the outfits of preppers and survival freaks, then does it reflect our time quite accurately, namely the approaching end of the world? “Avant Apocalypse” is actually another term for the trend, coined on Tik-Tok. Ye’s stuff is also included, as are collections from brands like A-Cold-Wall*, which are inspired by camouflage hoods, bulletproof vests and parachute jumpsuits. Doesn’t that bring you down a lot?
In any case, it is striking that Rick Owens, of all people, now makes a colorful snag. Long a dominator of runway dystopias with his sinister alien and zombie silhouettes, fashion’s Obergoth now features a bright pink tulle explosion in his Spring 2023 collection: a ball gown. Well! With the fashion world rubbing its eyes, Owens told the New York Times: “Part of me thinks we’re doomed, but while we’re still here we should be on our best behavior.” Pink, according to Owens, is a jubilant color. The 200 meters of tulle for the dress are made from Econyl, a recycled fabric made from ocean plastic. In other words, this new fashionable optimism is even ecologically compatible. Doesn’t that make the future look a lot rosier?
This column first appeared in the Musikexpress issue 12/2022.