Underneath all the blue denim at the Kingpins denim trade show, things got colorful on Thursday afternoon upstairs at the SugarCity venue. There, trend watchers Amy Leverton and Shannon Reddy from Denim Dudes presented the denim trends for SS24 with a colorful PowerPoint presentation full of images for inspiration.
Reddy and Leverton categorized the trends into four broader themes: ‘XS’, ‘Burned out’, ‘The last tourist’ and ‘Ethos’. All four stories are in their own way a response to the turbulent times we live in, ranging from escapism to rebellion and from the oppressed to the hopeful, according to Leverton and Reddy. These trends were showcased on site in color schemes, washes, seams and silhouettes.
XS
If you say ‘XS’ out loud in English, whether it’s from the native tongue of Reddy, an American, or Leverton, a Brit, you get “excess”. In a year and a half, this excess will shape the style of Generation Z, the generation of young adults who are now between the ages of 14 and 25. But that excess will have a clear direction: it will take the form of noughties silhouettes and highly personal creative excesses.
For denim, this means the return of the “Canadian tuxedo,” the head-to-toe tailored denim suit worn by Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears at the 2001 American Music Awards. Reddy and Leverton also see the return of jeans that sit low on the hips. And XS wasn’t spelled that way by accident, of course: the title is a nod to the tiny shorts that will then reappear.
At the same time, the wearers of 2024 set their very own accents by personalizing denim in an original way. Garments are worn inside out, cut into pieces, or embellished with paint and rhinestones.
burned out
‘Burned Out’ is a trend story that juxtaposes the glitz and glamor of its predecessor. It’s a reaction to the same circumstances, but darker and harsher, and with a more pessimistic view of the future. As an example, Reddy and Leverton cite Rick Owens’ recent show in Paris, where the decor consisted of the tall white walls of the Palais de Tokyo and a trio of flaming balls along the runway. The world is on fire, Owens seemed to be saying with the smoking bullets.
‘Burned Out’ is also a reaction to celebrity culture and the spectacular imagery of social media, countering them with realism. This preference for realism is also reflected in the popularity of the ‘Be Real’ app, on which users share an unembellished picture of their lives every day.
The protagonists of this trend story – summer or not – are dressed in more muted colors, even predominantly in black and grey. The silhouettes are looser and much more casual. In response to the ecological crisis, a lot of denim is also being reused for new garments.
The last tourist
Reddy and Leverton begin the third story with a stark critique of tourism today and the way tourists – especially on package tours – rip off the locals of the places they visit. Linked to this is the phenomenon of cultural appropriation in fashion, in which specifically Western brands adopt techniques and motifs from other clothing cultures and benefit from them without providing anything in return.
In contrast, Leverton and Reddy present a narrative grounded in admiration and respect for different cultures, as well as mutual curiosity and collaboration. From this they distill a denim trend that combines materials, prints and techniques from all over the world, from quilting to boro and patchwork. There is also a lively color palette with strong blues, pinks and yellows.
ethos
The last story is the most commercial, according to Leverton and Reddy. ‘Ethos’ ties into last year’s theme ‘Softly’, but with a more spiritual touch, the two say. This theme is about the connection with nature in a time when people have largely alienated themselves from it. This connection is sometimes very practical: fabrics and paints, for example, are made only from natural fibers and dyes.
Denim pants and jackets are loose fitting and oversized. They offer the wearer comfort and freedom of movement. Materials are processed as little as possible. It will be largely raw, unwashed and not torn denim is used – the artificial is avoided. But there are also tricks to make denim appear as if it has been bleached by the sun. The loose silhouettes and soft look, according to Reddy and Leverton, make these denim trends appealing to a wide audience.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl.