THEn a fashion industry now dominated by frenetic pace, packed calendars and daily new product launches, it’s difficult to find yourself waiting. The wait that has kept the fashion system in suspense in recent years concerned one thing beloved designer, shy and resistant to interviews and big public declarations. After six years of absence from the scene, Phoebe Philo is finally back, with her namesake brand. The designer who marked an era with her Celine thus reveals the next chapter of a career characterized by brilliant intuitions and highly successful collections.
Without fashion shows or official presentations, but with a site populated by evocative images, the Phoebe Philo brand is officially here.
The return of an icon
Born in 1973, a graduate from Central Saint Martins in London, Phoebe Philo began her career in fashion alongside Stella McCartneyat the time driving Chloe. Philo herself will succeed her as creative director until 2006. Two years later the English designer takes the reins of Celine inaugurating almost a decade of absolute aesthetic and commercial hegemonyAnd. Philo becomes the queen (gina) Midas of the house, resurrected by the vision of her, thanks to minimalist collections, full of accessories that immediately became must-haves and truly flattering garments. A cult develops around his figure and his work that few designers can boast, a passion that continues and indeed intensifies after his farewell to Celine in 2017. Finally, in 2021, the announcement of the birth of his brand of the same nameof which the LVMH group is a minority shareholder.
What Phoebe Philo’s brand is like
The news of the founding of his brand immediately thrilled the fashion industry, eager to find Philo again. In these two years, however, the mystery and confidentiality surrounding the brand have been absolute, so much so that even the official Instagram profile was devoid of posts and images. The same goes for the site, which for a long time remained a simple black page with a link to sign up to receive updates and news. No parade, no public presentation: the Phoebe Philo brand was born online. And here we can already recognize a first revolution. In her years at Celine, in fact, the English designer has always been reluctant, if not hostile, towards social media and e-commerce, which she resisted until the end.
One of the images that populate the moodboard on the Phoebe Philo brand website
Phoebe Philo’s first collection
But what is the first collection of the Phoebe Philo brand like? Essential yet infinitely glamour. There is no shortage of cornerstones of his aesthetic, such as ctailored suits characterized by soft trousers and oversized blazers. The shirts are enriched with maxi collars with very sharp tips, while rThe old fetish of dresses and skirts worn over pants is back. Philo also designs a series of outerwear, ranging from trench coats with a classic flavor, but with a contemporary cut, to leather bomber jackets with high collar, belt and ruche detail. The color palette is dominated by white and black, interspersed with neutral shades such as beige, brown and burgundy, as well as hints of military green and lavenderto.
Three of the looks that make up the first collection by Phoebe Philo
A new idea of femininity
In the images that tell of Phoebe Philo’s latest adventure (where there is no shortage of faces dear to the designer, such as Daria Werbowy or Binx Walton), a more experimental and sensual imagery also makes its way. The jackets made of small fragments of leather stand out, for a dynamic and voluminous final effect. Maxi-sized furs in ultra-feminine shades stand out, while the trousers with zips that reveal the curves are surprising. Alongside high-cut bodysuits and activewear-inspired leggings, we find evening dresses with dizzying slits covered in sequins.
Another of the shots on the brand’s website
As an expert creator of objects of desire, Phoebe Philo does not disappoint expectations in the accessories sector. The collection is in fact full of maxi leather bags, maxi mask sunglasses, dangling earrings and patent leather pumps. The golden necklace composed of the repeated word “mum” already has what it takes to become a viral phenomenon.
Phoebe Philo is officially back.
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