ANDbinding, unusual, delicate, so much so that it is never the only protagonist but needs olfactory pyramids that enhance it: it is the note of rice, fromthe slightly almond aroma, which characterizes delicate, fresh and soft perfumes, perfect for the beginning of spring 2023.
The scents of spring 2023 with a note of rice
Cultivated for about 90% in Asia, between China and South-East Asia, rice is a cereal that it also lends itself to the world of perfumery. Thus, one of the most consumed foods in the world is also interesting from an olfactory point of view.
But what exactly does “olfactory note of rice” mean? It is a molecule that recreates the aroma of cereal through the Maillard Reaction. It is a process discovered by the chemist Louis Camille Maillard in 1910, which sees the interaction of amino acids and sugars.
The aroma released is complex, with hints of toasting, reminiscent of freshly made popcorn. A warm note, enveloping but not invasive, greedy but not cloying.
Note of rice, the cereal with a thousand facets
Present in some creations, from Kenzo Love to Love in White by Creed, the rice note is also the opening ingredient of Diptyque’s latest creation, Eau Papier, That describes itself as “rice steam”: «The first note de L’Eau Papier it’s a’harmony of cereals built around a sesame extract and rice steam accord. This is the surprise element of the fragrance,” he explains of the nose and creator Fabrice Pellegrin.
As the creator of Grasse explains, the rice note is very versatile and lends itself to different interpretations: «In this case I chose it to evoke the unusual scent of ink and to add a delicate flavor to the perfume, evoking the lightness of rice paper».
It is enhanced by equally sweet and round scents: «Basically the notes of cereals, such as that of rice, they go very well with those of white musks, with which create a very clean and minimal combination, ideal for those looking for essential but at the same time sensual and unobtrusive fragrances».
From vanilla to spices, the notes that enhance rice
But it would reductive to define the note of rice only and simply as a clean and minimal ingredient. Indeed, in many olfactory pyramids, its delicate and slightly buttery trail is that extra hint that makes the other notes more interesting.
In Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes of Etat Libre d’Orange, the rice accord is more intimate, in the heart of the composition defined as an “emotional fragrance” by the creators. It is accompanied by ginger, coriander, cardamom, jasmine and aromas of the jungle, which tell of a journey towards a profound inner change.
There is Tonkin rice, instead, in the heart of Love in White by Creed, a jus that gives a light hint to a fragrance that speaks of love: it plays with the notes of narcissus, rose, magnolia and iris. From 2006 on Kenzo Love instead there is a note of quality rice basmati, which gives lightness to the trail of frangipani, coconut and vanilla.
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