Linterest of the world of antiaging cosmetics for the peptides is growing, and more and more skin care innovations contain this type of molecule to preserve the youth of the skin. They revitalize the skin texture, increasing its elasticity and compactness, they make wrinkles less noticeable because they mimic the action of botulinum toxin, they hydrate and counteract ageing. There are different types, and each peptide performs specific actions. Let’s find out together with a cosmetologist.
What are Peptides
Also called oligo-peptides, peptides are similar to proteins from which they differ in size. «Both molecules are made up of a sort of building blocks called active amino acids: when their number is less than 50 we speak of peptideswhen instead it is exceed we refer to proteinsalso called polypeptides or macro-molecules,” he explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini, member of SICC (Italian Society of Chemistry and Cosmetological Sciences).
«The peptides inserted in cosmetics are predominantly synthetic substances, or obtained in the laboratory, and it should be noted that cosmetic companies are increasingly oriented towards obtain them from the vegetable world», explains the cosmetologist.
There are different types of peptides, each of which has different actions: they stimulate collagen production, improve skin hydration and make wrinkles less noticeable (@mirandakerr Instagram)
“When the peptides are declared vegetable I am nothing but the proteins that make up a plantor its fruit. Once extracted, these substances they are broken up and reduced in size through a process called hydrolysiswhich uses water to break them down».
These molecules have one important feature. «They are considered bio-mimeticbecause they have a similar structure to similar cells found in the skin, e they have the characteristic of mimicking, or of imitating, its activity», underlines Umberto Borellini.
There are several types of peptides
The peptides included in cosmetic formulas they are not all the same. To realize this, just look at theInc (the international name used to indicate on the label the various ingredients present in a cosmetic product) of the products that claim to contain them.
We do not find the word “peptide” on the labelbut names such as, for example, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 or Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, citing the most popular.
Those botox effect
«Each peptide has its own specific mission for the well-being of the skin. Thus, referring to the molecules just mentioned, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 it is the most tested and famous muscle relaxant molecule, from the so-called “botox like” effect because it mimics the botulinum toxin», explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini.
The moisturizing ones
“The Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is the peptide responsible for stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen, factors that increase skin firmness and elasticity with the effect of rejuvenating the skin, and it is also useful for draining stagnant liquids, for example, in the eye area. Some types of lipo-oligopeptidei, finally, are also included in specialties that favor thethickening of eyelashes», explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini.
With these names, orient yourself and individuate finding the right peptide for your needs seems like an almost impossible feat. But the cosmetologist reassures: «In general cosmetic companies put the targeted function of the product in the foregroundwithout specifying the complex name of the peptide or peptide cocktail used’.
Creams with peptides must be used consistently
The expert also warns that cosmetics containing peptides do not give instant results. «To obtain the maximum of their functionality, constant use is required and continuous», says Borellini.
With the correct and prolonged application, they turn out decidedly effective, and they can play a truly regenerating and precious role in improving the appearance of the skin, rejuvenating it, and keeping aging under control”.
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