Since opening in 1875, Liberty has been one of the premier and most prestigious addresses for fashion and luxury goods of all kinds in London’s West End. The Tudor-style department store is known for its close connection to art and design and for its in-house design studio, which houses the designed its own fabric collection, typical of Liberty.
To find out how the department store combines its rich cultural heritage with trends, innovation and sustainability, FashionUnited spoke to womenswear buying manager Larissa Stange. The buyer also reveals how she likes to discover new brands and what the autumn/winter 2023 season will bring.
You are a womenswear buyer at Liberty, how has the department developed in recent seasons?
There have been many changes in recent years – post the pandemic, we have seen a reversal in fashion, from extremely casual to colourful, daring and chic. We have noticed a great demand for occasion wear, launched some new brands and expanded the range of existing brands accordingly. Where travel is back in full swing, last year we also introduced swimwear and casual wear. In general, we see potential in casual and contemporary brands that appeal to Gen Z, as well as in designer and advanced contemporary brands – so these areas have also grown for us.
How do you bring Liberty’s rich heritage to the womenswear range?
We always think of our customer first as we infuse Liberty’s heritage into our order. She has very discerning tastes and comes to us looking for a unique look that is trend relevant but with a consistent direction. We tend to go for quirkier pieces, especially when it comes to prints, colors and textures.
Liberty is synonymous with curiosity and discovery, which is why we attach great importance to young and exclusive brands.
Which styles worked well in 2022?
We had great success in dresses – summer and occasion styles were the most popular, with demand peaking in May. We have also experienced an enormous upswing in denim; wide fits are crucial here. Outerwear is always a strong category for us, with customers buying more classic brands and cuts in this area.
Concerns about inflation, the war in Ukraine and the consequences of the pandemic have shaken the fashion industry. Have you noticed a shift in consumer sentiment towards luxury?
We haven’t noticed a decrease in the demand for fashion, but there is certainly a trend towards minimalism and more classic pieces in this season’s collections and next. Fashion trends usually reflect the current social climate. While we’ve seen plenty of eveningwear and glitz and glamor over the last few seasons, I expect post-Covid customers will be looking for more understated pieces.
How do you like to discover new trends and brands?
I use different sources to find out about trends and new brands – social media, runway shows, lookbooks, fashion news and the like, but my favorite way to discover collections is in showrooms. There is nothing better than seeing a strong collection in real life, examining the cut and getting a feel for the material.
What do you look for in a brand so that it is included in the Liberty range?
A mix of trend relevance, how well the brand appeals to Liberty customers and whether it fills a gap in our range. Space at Liberty is much more limited compared to some of our competitors. While we aim to introduce new brands each season, we always make sure they have a unique selling proposition.
Which brands or designers would you like to launch in 2023?
We have some exciting launches planned: by popular demand we will be introducing Rick Owens, JW Anderson and Cecilie Bahnsen on our Designer Floor and Hunza G and Alemais on the Contemporary Floor. All will be delivered in spring. The rest of the year is still in the pipeline, but we’d also like to add one or two less established brands.
We will also expand Liberty’s own ready-to-wear brand and introduce a wider range of dresses, blouses and resort styles. Finally, we look forward to launching the Bridal section in Spring, featuring a range of existing contemporary brands and with a focus on civil ceremonies and second dresses.
Sustainability has become a key issue in fashion. How is eco-friendly and fair design promoted at Liberty?
One of our most important measures is to avoid overstocking. We tend to buy very demand-driven to ensure we have as little stock as possible at the end of each season.
In terms of range, we have a large designer vintage department that we are known for. We always make sure that we have a good selection of sustainability-oriented brands that is growing from year to year. It’s a very complex issue that can be tackled in many ways, but brands making an effort to tackle the issues include Aje, The Meaning Well or Citizens of Humanity.
What about Liberty Private Label?
When it comes to our own Liberty fabrics, used by brands around the world, as well as our own Liberty London brand, we take our commitment to responsible manufacturing seriously. We are deeply committed to supporting cotton-growing communities while protecting and regenerating the environment, including through the Better Cotton Initiative.
Which trend themes are you banking on for autumn/winter 2023?
There’s definitely a “summer glam” trend emerging for Pre-Fall – lots of satin, sequins and other luxe fabrics for dresses, sets and tailoring perfect for summer occasions.
Generally speaking, essentials with a twist and elevated garments are the focus for next season – oversized shirts, floor-length tailored coats, shift dresses and wide-leg trousers. The color palette is becoming significantly softer: after a few seasons of bold and rich colors dominating the trends, pastel colors and neutral tones will become more relevant for autumn-winter 2023.
What are the most important materials for the coming season?
Denim, denim, denim! An important topic that I expect will be picked up by different brands in all price ranges. I expect more head-to-toe looks, Y2K inspiration and patchwork styles.
When it comes to prints, next season’s focus will be on smudged, watercolor-inspired prints, wildflower prints and large-scale space prints – often in jewel tones.
According to trend forecasts, the topics of outdoor and utility are becoming increasingly important. Do you see that too?
Outdoors isn’t a trend we’re particularly keen on, but we’re definitely noticing influences in the collections – for next season we’re seeing a whole range of forest greens, browns and beiges. Utility is definitely something we see a lot, especially in the form of cargos and utility shirts.
What are your must-haves for HW23?
This question is very difficult to answer as the key items are determined by the major catwalk shows, but my personal must-haves are a maxi denim skirt and an oversized shirt.
This interview was conducted in written form.