In recent weeks there has been a lot of publicity (and concern) about the disappearance of brown pubs. In a dark brown café in Amsterdam, I therefore compliment the innkeeper on her beautiful business. She is also very enthusiastic about the atmosphere and the principle of a good brown café without fuss, just as a brown pub should be. She confided in me: “Last week someone ordered an alcohol-free gin and tonic with cucumber. So I immediately showed them the door!”
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A version of this article also appeared in the newspaper of April 14, 2023.