Oh, Panama – Oooh, oooh, Panama!

By Claudia Lux

“Welcome beautiful people” is written on the board at the entrance. Apparently I’m not one of them.

There is nobody outside in the yard except for me. Not even a waiter. At some point someone comes by, throws me a sparse “Hi!” and disappears into the stairwell.

We booked for 6.30 p.m. – and found out in the restaurant: service only inside. I wish I had known earlier too.

All the tables by the window on the first floor are still free. But we can’t sit there. These are for guests who made a reservation a quarter of an hour later. Are you crazy?

Now a competent waiter takes over. Yes, at the window! There are enough staff, also in the open kitchen. Not a matter of course in these times.

First things first (take that literally!): farmer’s bread with Liptauer (7 euros), croquettes (2) from saddle pigs with mustard, radish (8 euros). Delicious, 1+.

Then sturgeon with eel sauerkraut (25 euros). A great taste experience! The potatoes from the fire and the New Zealand spinach have to be paid extra (each 6.50 euros).

The dessert: apricot, aniseed hyssop, pancakes (9 euros). A luxury Berliner, but good.

Unfortunately we have to wait a bit for the bill afterwards. Conclusion: great food, high prices, small portions, mixed service. Oooh, oooh, Panama, this will probably remain a one-evening experience!

Potsdamer Str. 92, Tiergarten, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., closed Sun/Mon, Tel. 983 208 435, Restaurant on the web

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