The week-long, humid heat wave in New York did not harm New York Fashion Week. Both established brands and emerging designers defied the heat and presented their collections for spring/summer 2024.
At a time when luxury giants dominate the industry, only a few traditional fashion houses showed their designs in New York, as this season’s calendar was dominated by emerging, independent designers.
After sitting on the board of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for years, American designer Thom Browne – who was absent from the New York runway this season – was elected chairman of the CFDA in November. He promised to nurture new talent and “support the next generation of U.S. design,” according to the CFDA’s official statement. The next generation is now starting.
One task of both the coming and previous generations in the fashion world is social responsibility, a very controversial topic in the industry. At the start of New York Fashion Week, Mara Hoffman and Remake celebrated the Fabric, or “Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change” Act, a US law that will be formally reintroduced this season, at the designers’ Soho store. The law advocates for fair wages for garment workers to curb exploitation and promote growth.
Guerrilla activism is also back. Designer Stuart Vevers’ Gen Z-inspired 10th anniversary presentation at Coach was stormed by animal rights activists, while at Michael Kors PETA activists showed up.
At the glamorous final show of the Blonds brand, naked demonstrators also protested, criticizing the influence of fashion on climate change with body paint and slogans such as “No Fashion on a Dead Planet”.
The action was led by Extinction Rebellion, which wanted to highlight the “neglect of the climate and ecological collapse by governments and companies,” according to a press release from the organization.
New chapters and comebacks
No show was more eagerly awaited than Peter Do’s debut collection for Helmut Lang. Do is the brand’s most significant creative director since the departure of its eponymous founder in 2005. Upon his appointment, he said he wanted to both restore New York’s reputation and usher in the next chapter for the brand.
In typical debut language, the Vietnamese-American designer paid homage to Helmut Lang’s minimalist heyday in the ’90s with referential codes – monochrome ensembles, structured layers and tailoring – with his signature tailoring, clean silhouettes and flair for leather pieces. Some of the most personal touches included yellow strap motifs, an ode to the emblematic yellow taxi, and T-shirts with Ocean Vuong quotes, which also alluded to Lang’s various collaborations with artist Jenny Holzer in the noughties.
After initially showing his Purple Label in Milan, Ralph Lauren returned to the runway with an eclectic collection of expressive Americana pieces—tonal jeans, western belts and everyday wear—that tapped into youthful trends from maxi skirts to corset tops.
Phillip Lim 3.1 also returned to the catwalk after a four-year break. Upon his return, Lim showcased the ultimate New York City ensembles, from simple shirts to Lululemon-esque athleisure.
American fashion redefined
Although classic styles dominated this season’s runways, there was also maximalism, shown by mainly independent designers, providing a counterpoint to the elegant trends of the former.
Eckhaus Latta took his view of ready-to-wear clothing into more subversive directions. The New York-based brand showcased an authentic take on the American wardrobe, with open-toe, ’70s-collared cowboy shirts and twisted balloon pants that conveyed a familiar, surprising lightness.
Gypsy Sport held a show on Governors Island that had a lively collection after a delay due to a brief rain shower. Los Angeles-based designer Rio Sport did what he does best at the latest show under the name “Gypsy Sport”: a celebration of queer culture, diverse identities and unique streetwear. Heavily distressed jeans, mesh I Love New York shirts and a red, white and blue feather look worn by actress Dominique Jackson captured the essence of the style, evoking youth cultures in New York City and beyond.
Willy Chavarria presented a range of US styles at once on the final day, from prep to streetwear to cowboys. Chavarria intentionally mixed cowboy hats with track jackets and crewneck sweaters with religious symbolism to capture U.S. fashion from coast to coast through a Latin American lens.
The frilly zeitgeist
Following last season’s ruffle trend, ultra-feminine fashion continues to be redefined as gender neutral.
Titled “Cruising in the Rose Garden,” Palomo Spain’s show, in collaboration with Spanish brand Bimba Y Lola, leaned on the romantic mood of the 18th century. At the Plaza Hotel, traditional menswear silhouettes were embellished with lace, lace doilies and an array of floral motifs.
Tanner Fletcher also made a similarly artful statement, fusing masculinity and femininity through suits with an abundance of corsetry and bows. Garters sat on pinstriped pants, oversized bows adorned an all-white suit, and bouquets of flowers adorned numerous looks in a magnificent display of “beauty.”
Collina Strada left a sober tone with AI-generated, artfully delicate looks that descended into chaos as designer Hillary Taymour made her commentary on a world on fire. The mood was further enhanced by the models’ eerie, perpetually smiling performance coupled with a gloomy doomsday soundtrack. Patchwork prints layered with checks, clashing patterns punctuated by sheer lace, and period dresses tucked into stained denim summed up the apocalyptic mood.
The end of “Quiet Luxury”
This season, “Quiet Luxury” got a little louder with a variety of upscale – albeit neutral – styles that stand out from the crowd rather than drown in it.
Bevza presented a collection that effortlessly showed off underwear, including fishnet tanks, nearly sheer jersey dresses and side-slit pants that revealed built-in boxers. The simple, colorless tones have been brightened by a warm marigold print, reminiscent of the flowers common in designer Svitlana’s home country of Ukraine. With the print she wanted to remember her grandfather, who really liked this flower. “I was forced to leave my home in Kiev, but I carried the memory of him with me,” Bevza said in a press release. “I want these flowers to sprout everywhere.”
Design duo Proenza Schouler introduced a new monogram: an interwoven PS that evokes the endless fluidity of designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The show at Phillips Auction House opened with a single-breasted suit on singer Weyes Blood, which led the way to a series of denim, mesh, sequins and painterly chiffon dresses.
Closing out New York Fashion Week, brand Luar presented an elegant, bold collection that straddled business casual and edgy clubwear. Brooklyn-based designer Raul Lopez rose to prominence with his Ana bag, presented in a range of bold colors and prints. As for clothing this season, a simple black, white and gray color palette was accented by patent leather, silver embellishments and deconstructed pieces.
This translated article previously appeared on FashionUnited.com