La cosmetics makes great strides when it comes to new skincare. The last one is all Italian and, last September, she even won the It Awards Makeup in New York in the category formulation. It’s about the Beauty Pills Of Matt: solid tablets which, in contact with a few drops of water, dissolve in less than 20 seconds returning a light and velvety texture ready to be applied to the face. A customizable product in terms of active ingredients, performance, perfumes, colors and shapes. Sustainable and cutting-edge.
New skincare: microfluidics at the centre
To better understand the technologies of the 2023 skincare innovations, however, we must forget for a moment that there are only three states of matter. Alongside solid cosmetics, in fact, there is more and more progress microfluidics.
The latter is the science of high-precision control and manipulation of fluids which are geometrically forced into networks of small-sized channels, normally less than 100 µm in diameter. Applied to skincare novelties, returns highly concentrated formulas and able to penetrate deeply in the epidermis.
Perfect skin at all ages? A lot of skincare news is coming to help (Instagram/@therealhunzigram)
Chanelnot long ago, had translated it into make-up with foundation Les Beiges Eau de Teint. The formula of him is very light but full of micro-spheres of pigments that break down on contact with the skin restoring a flawless complexion.
Today, however, it is Guerlain to take a further step in this direction with its latest skincare novelty: Orchidée Impériale Micro-Lift Concentrate. This luxurious serum helps improve the density and youthfulness of the skin thanks to a pioneering micro-encapsulation: the tri-concentration that derives precisely from microfluidics.
At the heart of its formula, an essence of orchid incorporates two types of micro-spheres: 6,000 high-precision micro-sculptors and 6,000 micro-fillers concentrated in a firming peptide. The result is that of a real micro-lifting that acts from within to redefine the oval.
New skincare, between epigenetics and personalization
Another mission of the 2023 skincare innovations is to help the consumer avoid mistakes. An incorrect beauty routine – not calibrated on one’s skin type and habits – can in fact prove to be more harmful than useful. Often, however, one is led to choose a cosmetic treatment on the basis of personal tastes, the price, or even worse, the advertising appeal. To prevent this from happening, epigenetics comes into play.
It’s about the science that studies the set of chemical signals that manage the expression of the 20,000 genes contained in our DNA. Applied to cosmetics allows you to develop increasingly personalized formulas with some ingredients that act only on inherited genes and others that, on the other hand, reactivating the dormant ones in a targeted manner.
In fact, external agents often play tricks, sending signals to the skin that turn the genes off and on again in a confusing way. The result of all this stress is thepremature ageing.
The fight against aging also involves sustainability
In terms of ingredients, the challenge is that of total naturalness. But it is far from simple. Just think of the energizing truffle extract Black Diamond used by Estee Lauder for its top line Re-Nutriv: it is 99% naturally derived but, to maintain its purity, its processing requires almost 10,000 hours!
Even ingredients dusted off from the past like la cannabis. Don’t worry, in cosmetics it has no contraindications. On the contrary, relaxes tired skin, soothes it and counteracts premature aging.
In a certain sense, however, it could be said that it has “amazing” effects. “Creams and serums can contain derivatives as long as they are free of hallucinogenic cannibinoids,” he underlines Antonella Antoniniprofessor of the master’s degree in cosmetology atUniversity of Ferrarawho adds: «Hemp oil is usually used because it is particularly active as it is rich in antioxidantsproteins, vitamins and unsaturated fatty acids».
New skincare 2023: bio-similar prilling and patches
Anyone who thinks they’ve already seen it all, know that it’s not like that. Cosmetics is constantly evolving. There are two new frontiers in terms of texture: solid pearls that melt on the face and bio-similar patches that are completely absorbed by the skin.
At first there are many expectations. To make them, the active ingredients of which they are composed are transformed into micro-spheres through a cold working process that does not alter their properties. That is why this manufacturing technology, dictated prillingis perfect for protecting unstable substances such as vitamins and polyphenols.
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