New German at Pitti Uomo

A ‘New German Wave’ is conquering the international trade fair landscape.

On Tuesday, the Pitti Uomo men’s fashion fair opens its doors in Florence and, with the ‘Neudeutsch’ exhibition area, will for the first time focus on fashion ‘Made in Germany’. Based on the term that gives it its name, Neudeutsch curator, stylist and trend forecaster Julian Daynov chose brands based in Germany that rethink local fashion and prove that it can do more than pragmatic, practical, good, but without losing the sense of commercialism. The latter was a particular concern for Daynov. The word may often have a not necessarily flattering connotation, but the Berliner-by-choice is well aware that behind the fashion spectacle is not just the desire, but the necessity to win the favor of buyers and at the end of the day a sales area to convince.

Daynov not only relies on names that are already familiar to the German fashion landscape, such as the Berlin brands Haderlump and Avenir or the Cologne label Marke, but also uses the exhibition space at the Florentine exhibition center to introduce still largely unknown talents working in Germany to move the international spotlight. As befits a fashion trade fair, there are of course primarily fashion brands involved, but Neudeutsch also features product design, art and even something to satisfy your thirst.

FashionUnited is introducing five of the “new German” labels to watch to you at the start of the trade fair

J’ai mal à la tête

Fashion against head and world pain? At least it was the sentence “J’ai mal à la tête et à l’univers” from the work “The Book of Unrest” by the Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa that lent its name to the brand founded in Munich in 2012 by Anja Pawlik and Roman Dorfner. As a remedy for the aforementioned world-weariness, the duo presents collections that transform the “fast-paced spirit of the times into timeless pieces”. Specifically, this means fashion that is freed from a clichéd image of men, that combines sporty and elegant features and focuses on sustainability in production. Every piece of the brand, which aims to meet the needs of postmodern individualists who want to dress masculine and at the same time original, is made in Germany and Romania.

“We attach great importance to the high quality of our products by using high-quality materials that combine modern technology with many years of tradition and expertise,” said the Munich-based founding duo. “Our designs, high-quality materials and craftsmanship give each item a unique look and feel.”

Frnkow

The Frnkow label, founded in 2020 by siblings Frank and Nadja Lin, is dedicated to the often neglected sensual and emotional side of men’s fashion. Based on the classic shapes of men’s fashion, the Stuttgart label’s pieces, including both clothing and underwear, reinterpret masculinity and give them a subtle sensuality, which is particularly thanks to flowing, soft-looking fabrics and soft silhouettes. In addition to the materiality, stereotypically feminine details such as bows or ties are added to the masculine-looking pieces, which paint a more delicate image of masculinity.

Acceptance Letter Studio

An “acceptance letter” is received or given in recognition of one’s own work and offers it a home, writes label Acceptance Letter Studio on its website, laying down the philosophy of the label founded in 2021 by Korean-born designer Jakeyoung Shim. Acceptance and appeal are at the heart of the brand, which is committed to inclusion, functionality and gender neutrality. The brand’s garments are intended for everyday use and draw on athleisure, but without completely drifting into the world of streetwear.

International Citizen

The International Citizens label, founded in Berlin in 2020 by the Canadian Annika Tibando, creates women’s and men’s fashion that combines sustainability and spirituality. According to Tibando, who previously worked for several years in New York, including at the US brand Diane von Fürstenberg, the label is based on the philosophy that we are not citizens of one country, but of planet Earth Ethos that should be reflected in the label’s sustainability efforts. While the thought of chakra crystals woven into clothing might initially bring to mind a hippie-esque aesthetic, International Citizen is surprisingly minimalist. The cut construction of the womenswear-based collections is characterized by geometric lines, targeted cutouts and unexpected shapes, resulting in a clean and sensual look that bypasses seasons and fashion trends in order to coexist at all times.

OBS

The leather and bag brand, founded in Augsburg in 2019 by Matthias and Johannes Schweizer, finds its origins in the brothers’ origins from a family with an emphasis on craftsmanship. The brothers’ first designs were realized in the basement of their parents’ house before the OBS team was expanded in 2020 to include their school friend Salim Jakoub Ibrahim. Since its founding, OBS has focused on producing durable products that combine high-quality materials with unique design concepts. The shape of each piece is closely linked to the construction principle, with an emphasis on durability and minimizing material waste. This meticulous approach is evident in the leather bags, which feature raw edges and visible stitching, demonstrating great attention to detail.

The product range includes not only bags, but also small leather goods, jewelry and clothing, all of which are functional and manufactured with minimal use of resources. OBS sources the materials sustainably, often from remaining stocks, and sets high standards among its production partners in the area.