1,100 fabric collections at Munich Fabric Start, 100 denim collections at Bluezone – these are good numbers for a trade fair in an internationally challenging environment. In Munich, everything is currently revolving around the new basic ingredients for the autumn/winter 2024/25 season.
Premiere of the new, earlier date
There is an enormous amount of movement in the international trade fair landscape. During the course of the pandemic, many organizers have thought about their dates and set new benchmarks for the industry – including Munich Fabric Start: With its current show, which takes place from July 18th to 20th (the Bluezone ends one day earlier as usual) , the organizers have dared to move forward six weeks. “The postponement was one of the biggest changes at Munich Fabric Start in recent years,” explains Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start. Although the first few hours at the fair felt a little emptier than usual, Klinder is confident. “The new date is correct, but change processes take time. And of course, with such big changes, there are always voices in all directions. If the verdict had been clear, we would have done it earlier.”
Nevertheless, the organizers strive for continuity and stability, which are all the more important in times of change. After all, the denim trade fair Bluezone is celebrating its 20th anniversary this summer. Many exhibitors have been loyal to the trade fair for years and have not even changed their location at the trade fair.
However, it is important to have a well-rounded picture and a good offer, precisely because companies are now taking a close look at which trade fairs they still want to visit, says Klinder. The sourcing area launched last summer in the adjacent Motorworld is therefore back at the start. The DMI Fashion Day on the day before the trade fair at the MOC should also create synergies. “Many arrived a day earlier and can now combine both appointments,” Klinder continues. “We think it’s important not to focus too much, but to offer the widest possible range with women’s, men’s and denim collections, with our new sourcing area and thematically relevant forums,” says Frank Junker, Creative Director & Partner of Munich Fabric Start .
Fabric trends for the FW24/25 season: Highlands, extroverted classics and retrofuturism
Carl Tillessen, DMI Trend Analyst, draws attention back to happier times and the essence of fashion in the face of the current ongoing crisis: body and fabric. Not coincidentally, he highlighted the JW Anderson fashion show, where near-naked bodies carried bolts of fabric down the runway, attempting to symbolize a return to the true ingredients of fashion. “That’s what fashion is about right now: to take people on a journey through time to stages in our lives and in their lives when we, and everyone around us, were so much more carefree than we are today.”
And which trends are these exactly? The fashion analysts at the fair have forecast various, often contradictory tendencies for the FW 24/25 season on their trend boards. The keyword “Highland Hybrids” hides the archaic longing for nature and originality, forests and meadows, but paired with the aesthetics of modern technologies that enable independence and self-determination. This theme is based on performance, hiking, camping and urbanity. The fabrics are robust and stylish and always perfectly balanced on the line between multifunctionality and fashion.
More playful and just as contradictory is the theme “Mystic Beings”, which is inspired by the fantasy world with elves, heroes, monsters and robots. Inspired by virtual design, artificial reality, gaming and rendering, the focus is on opulent light and glitter elements, surrounded by powerful shapes and opulent materials such as fake fur. The third theme, “System Cringe”, is characterized by positivism and motivation, new across cultures and generations create laws and rules. The triad of environmental protection, responsible use of resources and mindful cooperation is the top priority, which is reflected in styles that are characterized by upcycling and second hand. Traditional looks and a certain sexiness play a central role in “Kinky Classics”. Classic garments and fabrics are put in a new light. Everything revolves around aesthetic provocation – be it through unusual shapes, broad shoulders, deep cuts, slits or enveloping widths in the dressing gown style. In addition, transparent and asymmetrical, unfinished elements that provide more sensuality.
“Past Forward”, the last theme, is an aesthetic journey through time to the sixties and seventies with their organic shapes and lines. The age of the first moon landing is combined with today’s technologies, such as innovative production processes and 3D printing. Despite the inspiration from the past, the focus here is on rethinking to create something meaningful, beautiful and better. It’s about quality, modularity and longevity so that fashion can stand the test of time, change and remain relevant for the future.
Denim trends FW 24/25: trendsetter luxury brands
Denim is and will remain a perennial favorite and an almost timeless must-have for every collection. However, Tilmann Wröbel, CEO of the denim design agency Monsieur T., made it clear in his presentation at the Bluezone that the industry should dare to do more than just the classic 5-pocket trousers. “Denim is currently very relevant in the luxury industry, but they do completely different things with denim and are very experimental with it,” says Wröbel. “There are also gala dresses made of denim or coats. We have to be careful that we don’t just keep repeating what we’ve been doing for years.” Important trend themes for him are therefore “star system”, whereby denim is shown in new looks, also coated with glitter and foils. Just as important is the theme of “old money/quiet luxury”, which is reminiscent of the dandy style or the preppy look of the 1980s. Tailoring elements and special fabrics play an important role here, as do echoes of tennis and equestrian looks. “It’s kind of a counter-movement to the trend of the last few years, where sneakers and a bold logo on the t-shirt were enough.” Here again it’s more about craftsmanship and fit, “investing in patternmakers has never been more important than now” , the designer continues. Cuts from the 80s could provide important inspiration, when there were many good examples of tailoring, especially in women’s jeans. Wröbel: “We have to learn that again.”
Utilitarianism with edgy, military overtones remains important, with badges, camouflage prints and a plethora of pockets that can be placed anywhere on pants and jackets. Baggies are also important – not the exaggerated, overdesigned pants, but simple, wide fits that just shouldn’t have too many details. “I know we all don’t think it’s particularly nice, but that’s how the kids wear it.” In addition, the social media channels and the big brands are showing a return of hipsters – especially among men, as well as a new enthusiasm for belts . “You have to think of belts, not only because of the loops, but also for the presentation in the store,” explains Wröbel.
Sustainability also continues to play a central role in the denim industry. “Unbleached Nature” relies on unbleached fabrics. Textures are extremely important here, such as slub yarn (fancy yarn with irregularly thick and thin areas). But no-indigo means even more. Wröbel: “We can now do all processes without indigo and do without indigo altogether.” Perhaps not yet for the mass market, but high-priced brands should definitely consider it, says the designer.
Sustainability: New dyeing technologies and materials
At the trade fair, there were also a number of manufacturers who have made more sustainable dyeing processes their task. The Turkish denim supplier Bossa presented denim made from colored cotton plants, which the company grows near its own factory in Adana. Ficus, another Turkish company, specializes in dyeing with vegetable dyes and started the project ten years ago. Ficus can now offer 50 different colors, but all of them are more in the pastel range. “We can’t produce black and strong colors yet,” says Selim Sadir from Ficus.
However, in her trend presentation, Karin Schmitz from Peclers Paris points out that dyeing has made progress. With the help of microorganisms, Colorifix from England found ways to develop completely new color palettes in the field of vegetable colors. Colorifix is a winner of the renowned Andam Innovation Prize.
When it comes to materials, more and more weavers are using recycled fibers. Denim supplier Isko, for example, uses more and more recycled cotton and mixes it with recycled polyester and other fibers such as tencel, modal, cashmere and soy.
The RWTH Aachen University presented a cooperation with Adidas at the trade fair, whereby the textile surface is made from algae. “These algae were grown in the laboratory and can be processed into polymers,” explains Nicole Espey from the Biotexfuture project at RWTH Aachen University. Other research areas of the project are bio-based raw materials for the production of elastane and alternatives for PFAS, i.e. for water- and oil-repellent finishes for textiles. In the production of both elastane and PFAS, the industry faces the challenge of having to find alternatives because certain chemicals will be banned in the EU in the future. “The industry has been looking for an alternative to PFAS for ten years, but no alternative has yet been found, especially for the oil separation function, which is required for medical clothing or fire brigades, for example. The exciting thing about Biotexfuture is that nobody has looked in the field of biology before. So far, biological research has had little contact with the textile industry.” However, it will take a while before alternatives are found. The project, which is also funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research, will run until 2025.