“Never forget that you are more than your looks”

The first thing that strikes you about Elisabeth Granli is her smile – open, friendly and curious about the world. Then the bright blue eyes and her height – the Norwegian native tends to tower a bit over most. We recently met after a flight from Mumbai, where the ex-model and photographer spent a few days photographing children of sex workers in Mumbai’s red-light district at the invitation of a non-profit organization.

Now in her fifties, Granli recalls her years in the modeling industry, during which she traveled the world shooting ads and images for catalogs of fashion, bridal, accessories and beauty products, among a variety of other products. Although she attended a few fashion shows in Milan, Granli never made it into the ranks of top models – or even came into contact with them.

Elisabeth Granli at the beginning of her modeling career. Image: courtesy of Elisabeth Granli

But she also got a glimpse of the glamor world — she once danced in a Paris nightclub with Jack Nicholson, whose girlfriend she played years later in the film Something’s Gotta Give. He didn’t remember the encounter in Paris, but he liked her response when he asked her, “What’s your good side?” when they were photographed together at the casting. Not intimidated by celebrities, Granli cheekily replied, “I don’t know, what’s yours?”. In an interview with FashionUnited, Granli recalls the many sides of the model’s life.

Usually, the world of models is associated with a lot of glitz and glamor on the one hand and scandals and exploitation on the other. Is that your experience too?

There’s definitely a difference between being a top model and all eyes are on you and seeing modeling as a financial stepping stone like I did. I don’t know how it is now, but back then you could make good money modeling in Japan. A friend of mine stayed and worked in Tokyo for three years and saved enough to later go to law school. And the culture there is very different – models are less objectified and it’s a very safe work environment.

Speaking of being safe – have you ever had an unpleasant experience or felt threatened?

Believe it or not, in all those years there has only been one incident that has left a bitter taste in my mouth, and that was at the very beginning of my career. I had just started working at an agency in Milan after being spotted in Oslo. I was there for two months and met a lot of nice people and had a lot of fun. But one day, during a test shoot, the photographer started masturbating in front of my eyes. Although nothing further happened, I was disgusted and drove back to Norway.

But that wasn’t the end of your modeling career?

No, before that I had started studying French at the University of Oslo and worked as a temp in a café. There I met two photographers who asked me if I wanted to model. I had never thought about it but they put me in touch with an agency and that’s how I ended up in Milan. When I came back, I really wanted to study again, but I couldn’t get modeling (and travel) out of my head. There was a modeling competition in Oslo that I entered and won, and the prize was a contract with a modeling agency in Paris.

Elisabeth Granli when she was a model. Image: courtesy of Elisabeth Granli

So I packed my bags and moved to Paris. Life there was just magical – I loved sitting in the cafes and reading Sartre and Camus, I was a philosopher model (laughs). We went out one night and there was Jack Nicholson and I was dancing with Prince and it was all so normal. They seemed like normal people.

What was one of your most memorable modeling assignments and why?

My trips were definitely unforgettable. For example, I was in Morocco for a French clothing company – we shot in the desert and had a team with Bedouins and camels, it was so exotic. I also spent five months in Tokyo and some time in China to shoot for a Chinese department store.

What have you learned from modeling in terms of your personal development?

It taught me that I have more inner strength than I thought I had. I’ve also learned not to be afraid to ask other people for advice and help, I’ve learned that on my travels. If I hadn’t had this experience, I would have been intimidated. I was also lucky not to be sexually harassed, but I was older and had more independence; I wasn’t a kid or a teenager like a lot of other models when they start.

So I’ve never seen myself as an object, but always as a person who is more than what they look like. That’s something that was very important in Norway, where I grew up, along with a good education. There were also many female role models, for example we had a female prime minister back then.

But you didn’t stay in Paris?

No, in 1993 I moved to Los Angeles and immediately got an agency, Elite. I photographed in Miami for many European catalogs (e.g. for Otto). And once you’re in LA, sooner or later you get involved with acting. I landed a small part in Whatever the Heart Desires, took acting classes, and eventually had minor roles in LA Confidential and a few college films. But then I gave up because I had to work so much on my accent to sound American. (laughs)

“My old friend Ray Anthony and I on one of those magical nights at the famous Playboy Mansion. Home away from home”, Granli remembers this photo. Image: courtesy of Elisabeth Granli.

You then went from in front of the camera to behind the camera – can you tell us a little bit about that change? What motivated you?

I’ve always been interested in how to get the best out of an outfit, lighting, posture and so on. So I saw the whole process and the modeling as part of it. I was interested in the photographers’ work as part of a collaborative creation. There were also a few women among them. I kept asking them about the cameras and lighting and they were more than happy to explain. I also learned a lot just by watching, and the posing came very naturally to me, it was sort of intuitive.

My first assignment in LA in the late 90’s was to photograph filmmaker David Lynch doing transcendental meditation. More commissions followed, many portrait photos for friends and then campaign photos for the political candidate Marianne Williamson. At the moment I’m doing a lot of individual portraits, family portraits, and photographing weddings and pets. I loved photography even before I started modelling, even as a child, so it comes full circle for me.

What were some of your most memorable moments as a photographer?

A few years ago I worked with a non-profit organization that works against human trafficking and photographed children rescued from sex trafficking in Mumbai, Kolkata and Dhaka. Those were incredible moments when I saw these kids open up. I ended up publishing a book about them (“The Lucky Ones”), the proceeds of which went to these organizations.

One of the photos for Granli’s photo book The Lucky Ones. Image: Elisabeth Granli.

What advice would you give to newcomers to the field of photography?

Just start, practice at every opportunity, even with your cell phone. Lighting and viewing angles are key, just play around with the art form. Find out what your strengths are and what suits you the most – for me that was portraits. Show your photos to others and ask for their honest opinion.

What advice would you give to people who want to start modelling?

Wait until you are 18 or 19 before you begin. I was also traveling alone for a month – so I got some experience of being alone. Education is important, as is developing a positive self-image before subjecting yourself to constant criticism.

One should also always remember that one is more than just the body, a beautiful shell. Don’t let feedback about yourself alter your self-esteem, be it praise or criticism. I’m grateful to have had this strong backing as I’m from Norway where women are valued for more than just their looks.

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