THEMom is an “olfactory figure” which is part of the unconscious: in fact it is in fact remained faithful over time to some particular notes or fragrances of the heartwhich evoke it only in the air. And this is how some perfumes are handed down into memory, but also in the beautycase of the daughters. To be rediscovered, or to give, on what better occasion than Mother’s Day?
Mother’s Day, an “olfactory figure”, with her perfume
Recognize a fragrance as a family member is one Immediate reaction: several studies have shown that a note for the brain is enough for instinctively activate neuronal circuits. According to studies on body language, if capturing a perfume, you look up, it seems both because cognitive memory is trying to remember where and how the perfume has already felt. If, on the other hand, you look down, it is because the emotional memory has already recalled, on the fly, the link or meaning of that fragrance.
And in this, “hundreds of thousands of smells seemed no longer to be worth anything in front of one. The superior principle according to which the other perfumes had to be classified”: with this sentence, Patrick Süskind it describes quite well what starts in the unconscious the unmistakable perfume that belonged to her mother.
Gen z e Millennials, today, experience new fragrances with the ease of a change of dress. Many women of previous generations, however, they tended to remain quite faithful to the same fragrance Also for many years, ending up for identify with some key notes, unforgettable, For them and for those who are growing up nearby. That’s why Mom can be defined as a “Olfactory figure”a projection of precise notes in the unconscious.
And since The perfumery went hand in hand with eras and fashionsare often easy to trace and identify. If in the 1921 iconic N ° 5 by Mademoiselle Chanel and the precious Joy Of Jean Patou They anticipate the first intense and precious floral florals, “the second post -war period is the era that marks the birth of the most Large female fragraities of character“, tells Academy of perfume.
1929 – Jean Pathou Joy; 1937 – Coco Chanel in person testimonials of the first Chanel n ° 5.
The mothers of the ’50
It was the 1947 When Monsieur Christian Dior he wanted to accompany the revolution of his fashion with an equally irreverent, modern, elegant fragrance: Miss Diornickname of his sister Catherine, followed by Diorwho wanted to be the freshest and most transparent of the female of the time. Same year, also the maison Lancômeborn in 1949, made his debut in perfumery with Magic In ’51 (the tied in twisted bottle was already at the avant -garde, which still enclosed a must -have fragrance: Hypnôse:: aThely seemed a magic, today hypnotizes) and Envol In ’57, a flowery and green mix synonymous, for many, of a mother’s embrace.
Or again, it is of the 1959 Jasmal Of Creedopulent in his essential bouquet of Italian jasmine. It was the era of aldeidati perfumesthat is, enriched with special molecules derived from laboratory sugars capable of making the undisputed protagonists of bouquets, flowers, particularly crystal clear, pure and sparkling. Precious roses and jasmine remain, to date, the unmistakable of every classic bouquet.
1950 – Miss Dior; 1951 – Lanc magicorme.
The mothers of the 60s and 70s
Then come the 60s and 70sand the feminist revolution also influences perfumery. In those years, spicy notes, patchouli, the talcaty and dusty hints of the Iris mixed with ambre and precious woods conquer mothers and daughters of the first great feminist claims. Lavenda and Veiver steals for the first time dry freshness from the male: it was the scent of economic independence, the olfactory metaphor for the equality of sexes.
These are the years of Chamade Of Guerlain (’69), Amazone Of Hermès (’74), Chloé Of Chloé (’75, then under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld), of the Conturborus Opium Of Yves Saint Laurent (’77), up to the unforgettable Charlie Of Revlon of ’73, glamorous icon of free and independent women, with testimonial Shelley Hack of the Charlie’s Angel and Naomi Sims, one of the first African American models in the fashion system.
Eighties they will emphasize the declaredly seductive, eccentric, colorful, bold, fragrance character, as the same campaigns of Charlie demonstrate, or the then new flagship face of Chanel n ° 5 for all seventies and mid -eighties, Catherine Deneuve. Advertising consecrates colors, gestures, graphic iconographies and testimonials.
1977 – Opium by Yves Saint Laurent; 1973 – Charlie di Revlon.
Today’s “daughters” fragrances
Some remained unchanged, a classic of the classics including the bottle, while many of these fragrances protagonists of the mothers toilets have recently been re -proposed or relaunched on the marked in a millennial key, Young, ally, towns, but never distorted. As if to pass on an olfactory story that goes beyond generations.
2019 – Chanel n ° 5 L’Eau with Lily Rose Depp Testimonial, 2020 – Miss Dior Rose N’Roses, with a face Natalie Portman.
This is the case of N ° 5 The Eauto whom Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, Lily Rose, or various olfactory chapters of Miss Dior, reinterpreted over the years by François Demachy, Nose of the Maison Dior, who today dedicates it to the new generations of young lively, refined and independent women.
So for Opium Of Ysl Beautélegendary, relaunched in 2009 and then reinterpreted with editions and special bottles, today still a bestseller: the latest version? Ysl Black Opium Neon Eau de Parfum Glitter“Electrifying”. So the olfactory family diary should not only be remembered. But as handed as possible.
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