The rise of informal weddings and the growing interest in vintage and second-hand dresses for the sustainably-minded younger bride, along with the uncertain financial climate, has caused unrest in the bridal industry. The news that the LVMH shares Falling as much as eight percent in the third quarter after a three-year period of growth has led experts to predict a slowdown in luxury purchases.
For many people, there is no more luxurious purchase than a wedding dress. Last year, the global wedding dress market was valued at $43 billion (€40.78 billion), still benefiting from the post-pandemic wedding wave that now appears to have leveled off. The 70-year-old bridal fashion giant David’s Bridal filed for bankruptcy earlier this year.
With a focus on Generation Z, whose oldest members are now in their mid-20s, brands need to be aware that these customers’ values will guide their purchasing decisions for the special day. FashionUnited takes a look at the six wedding trends shown at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYBFW) that reflect these realities.
Short cuts and bold two-pieces
Younger brides want less fuss and more versatility. Short dresses were ubiquitous at NYBFW. At Nicole & Felicia, white fabric roses popped out from under a flared satin peplum and at Milla Nova, a traditional corset was paired with a ruffled miniskirt and finished off with matching gloves.
Sareh Nouri also showed off her beaded minidresses in a super short length, while Israeli designer Julie Vino’s lingerie-inspired babydoll and A-line dresses were adorned with intricate details reminiscent of sparkling sunbeams radiating from a flared miniskirt. All of these short cuts offer many options for individual styling.
Yolancino featured a sequined minidress with a puff-sleeved silk taffeta overdress, and Milla Nova paired fitted, lavishly embellished dresses with a sweeping feather-trimmed cape. The The garment of the 2024 bridal fashion season is the cape. It appeared in a variety of models: short and billowy over long dresses at Francesca Miranda, floor-length and sculptural at Marcela, made of satin with shoulder pads at Julie Vino or decorated with crystals at Honor.
With the Los Angeles label Yellow By Sahar, the bride was able to divide her wedding outfit into three parts: the dress, a detachable train and a delicate, short bolero to adapt it to the different phases of her wedding day. Francesca Miranda showed tailored lace suits and satin baé two-piece suits with shawl collars and an oversized vertical bow. Badgley Mischka presented removable color details in the form of bows and sleeves in different shades of blue.
At Moira Hughes, the bride was able to pair a strapless corset top with an extravagant satin ballgown skirt, which could then be swapped out throughout the wedding day for a playful pleated skirt perfect for dancing. Tempête provided options for the casual bride – featuring a draped bandeau top with flared lace hem trousers and an embroidered lace headpiece.
Artistic streak
Bridal bouquets may prove unnecessary as floral prints and hand painting come to the fore. At Moira Hughes, a floral-print fabric reminiscent of living room curtains was draped across the chest and finished in billowing sleeves, while the floor-length skirt flared through a leg slit to the thigh, creating a romantic display for the less traditional bride to offer.
At Amsale, the brand’s optimism for the coming season was reflected in a dreamy blue printed organza dress that drew attention away from the classic white dresses. At Nadia Manjarrez, the black all-over embroidery over white organza caused a stir. The floral embroidery was so delicate that it looked more like a charcoal drawing. But the artistic craftsmanship was particularly evident in hand painting. Veils were decorated with swirls of petals at the hem, like at accessories label Paris by Debora Moreland or Halima Grine. There was also painting at Tal Kedem and Zahra Batool Couture, the latter combining two trends by painting her sinuous floral motifs along the train of a cape.
Physical diversity
Curvy brands and models are still a rarity at NYBFW, but some labels are moving closer to a wider range of sizes. The New Zealand label Hera Couture focuses on a comprehensive range for all sizes. Most notable is Tel Aviv-based Studio Levana, which sells off-the-rack dresses up to size 42 and can make bespoke dresses up to size 56. The dresses have a lightweight aesthetic, with a built-in bodice technique patented by the label to make the wearer feel confident and confident. For a small fee, they offer unlimited customization options on all dresses.
The magic of minimalism
Quiet luxury meets wedding dresses: The Budapest brand Daalarna appeals to the bride with nymph-like dresses that are uncomplicated and focus on delicate draping and ruffles that take advantage of the lightness of the often transparent fabrics. At Barcelona’s Sophie Et Voilà, whose ready-to-wear collections are popular with celebrities, satin dresses with interesting details were on display. The dresses were decorated with handmade roses on the neckline or wrap skirts.
Copenhagen-based Zoe Rowyn offers a silk slip dress in every collection – this season she paired the dress with a floor-length lace blouse with a train, held together with a single button at the neck, for a charming layered look. Unlike many ruched and beaded tulle veils, Halima Grine’s sculptural veil appeared cute and modern through the use of crinoline technique.
Big and pompous
Of course, there are still statements with large, pompous and architectural dresses that compete for attention on the shelves of Valentini of Puglia or large-scale appliqués that were also found in the collection of Jorge Manuel from Miami. The former architect was inspired to create his bridal collection by his grandmother, who designed dresses for private clients from her home. His collection featured ornate textures such as laser brocade and dense embroidery made by a family of artisans in Mumbai. Laser technology also appeared in lighter fabrics with large, tonal floral motifs.
There were couture-level baroque embellishments and finishes at Barcelona-based J’Aton, decadent pearl motifs at Leah Da Gloria, and feathers and laser-cut motifs at Lebanese brand Gemy Maalouf. In addition to offering an alternative to minimalism, Marco & Maria seemed to be trying to catch the attention of vintage shoppers with colorful embroidery on beige dresses or black lace over ecru.
Gender fluidity is reaching the industry
Wedding fashion that finally breaks away from gender traditions – white lace and ruffles for the bride and suit or tailcoat for the groom – was shown by Ukrainian brand Milla Nova at its presentation at an art gallery in Tribeca. Proving that love knows no boundaries, large ruffled roses covered an unzipped jacket worn over a crystal-encrusted demi-corset, white pants and sneakers.
A structured and richly decorated lace vest with a Nehru collar was casually combined with trousers. For an extravagant look, a half-corset and white pants were paired with a sheer, flared overdress that featured beading at the neck and shoulders and adorned with pleated rosettes at the voluminous train.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Pia Schulz