Milan Men’s Fashion Week unleashes constraints and shows lots of skin

Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which has just ended, has shown that commercial fashion, formal wear and contemporary style can seamlessly merge, breaking down the boundaries between different communities and target groups.

At the beginning of the men’s fashion season, not only new standards were set in ready-to-wear, such as soft, deconstructed shoulders and extremely short shorts, but also a new design language was introduced, which is characterized by less constraints, innovation and courage to the skin.

Valentino

Under creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino has continued a design concept originally unveiled at last month’s Met Gala. There, actor Pedro Pascal wore an eye-catching look of fitted shorts paired with a tailored coat, schoolboy socks, a sheer shirt and tie, sparking a media frenzy. In Milan, a similar outfit caused a stir at the Valentino show, albeit in white instead of the iconic Valentino red worn by Pascal.

The distinctive look appeared in different variants throughout the collection, in bright shades of green, pink and azure. Above all, long coats with dropped shoulders, some subtly embroidered with monochrome flowers on the front, were worn over shorts. Shorts and skirts ran like a thread through Piccioli’s collection, signaling a new understanding of tailoring that was felt throughout fashion week.

Dsquared2

Dsquared2 also embarked on a new style and was inspired by the playful aspects of 90s fashion. This time, however, the brand presented a genuine version that showed off both the garments that cover the body and the exposed parts equally. The collection showed plenty of skin, from glittery briefs and low-rise jeans to ripped t-shirts that reveal a toned torso. Some looks consisted only of boxer shorts, especially in combination with calf-high socks and sneakers. With Donna Summer’s “Love to Love You Baby” playing in the background, Dan and Dean Caten, the dazzling twins and founders of Dsquared2, demonstrated their flair for sensuality and how to sell sex. This season they also proved they know how to pack it.

Brioni

Known for its exquisite bespoke tailoring and high quality fabrics, Brioni has chosen for Spring/Summer 2024 to turn away from passing trends and instead focus on the timeless essence of fashion.

Brioni’s creative director Norbert Stumpfl underscored the desirability of this collection with flawless cuts and luxurious materials. Fabrics such as silk, cashmere, suede, wool and cotton have been carefully selected by Struppl because they are naturally beautiful and of lasting quality. The art of tailoring was the focus, with the blazer being the heart of the collection.

Here, lightweight wool, cotton and silk dominate, with sleeves casually rolled up as if to convey the message that elegance and sophisticated dressing need not be synonymous with rigid conventions.

Instead, the garments effortlessly adapt to the demands of modern lifestyles, striking a balance between relevance and relaxation, even when worn during the day. With its collection, Brioni has shown that good clothing style goes beyond the world of flâneurs.

Emporio Armani

One of Italy’s most revered – and enduring – designers, Giorgio Armani, now in his late eighties, defined the notion of boundless elegance. It was Armani who introduced women to men’s tailoring, breaking the codes of traditional suiting and creating a pared-down palette of beiges, navy and neutrals with fabrics so fluid they seem made for the body .

The show’s central motif was the ginkgo leaf, which symbolizes longevity, resilience, enlightenment, balance, natural beauty and cultural importance – traits that reflect the essence of Emporio Armani and its founder. Armani has long drawn inspiration from Asia, where clean lines, understated elegance and simplicity characterize its designs. His exploration of the yin and yang philosophy, the delicate balance between opposing forces, is a further expression of his commitment to finding harmony through thoughtful design.

prada

Miuccia Prada has long been known for her ability to capture the zeitgeist. She weaves together political landscapes, artistic influences, academic reflections and collective emotions to create garments that strike a delicate balance between desirability and a lo-fi aesthetic.

With their latest Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons wanted to convey a feeling of absolute freedom for the body, which is manifested in the fundamentals of the clothes that adorn it. However, this idea of ​​freedom seemed a bit artificial. The styling of the exaggeratedly broad shoulders and fitted waist seemed a bit constructed and more reminiscent of other luxury houses than Prada itself.

Prada, once as futuristic as it was timeless, if not a leader in interpreting classics into modern, desirable pieces, has created more of a gimmick than a liberation with the over-the-top styling of this collection.

The question arises whether the reinforcement of the shoulder area really represents a liberation. Are overly detailed utility garments a matter of deconstruction and reconstruction, or have they become archetypes fueled by superficial trends that merely boost sales rather than define menswear history?

It remains to be seen whether this collection proves to be pure money-maker or whether it will be remembered for its incredible set with curtains of water and slime, because Prada moves in this field of tension between freedom and sensationalism.

This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk