The art of tailoring and elegance took center stage on the Milan Fashion Week men’s catwalks, embodying a central theme vital to the country’s fashion DNA and businesses. These elements have always brought sustained success to Italian brands. In a world that is constantly changing, the question arises: why change what already works?
Gucci
The first catwalk collection by the new creative director Sabato De Sarno of the Italian luxury fashion house Gucci was met with divided opinions. Using stylistic details such as choker chains and long dandy ties, the collection featured a restrained color palette and raised doubts about a clear vision. In addition to the suits with crisscross tails and contrasting lapels, De Sarno also relied on leather outerwear and logo pockets that hint at commercial success. Despite some criticisms, the real verdict lies with the audience: During Milan Fashion Week, the Gucci stores seemed to be full of customers.
Prada
Italian luxury fashion house Prada took a subversive approach with its FW24 collection, focusing on the fundamental and familiar aspects of fashion. Held against the backdrop of an office interior and a natural landscape, the show was intended to reflect both the surroundings and the seasons. The emphasis on the tie, interpreted in a less strict and intellectual way, underlined the simple but casual character of the collection. Trench coats, color-blocked trousers and sandals contributed to a relaxed aesthetic.
JW Anderson
Northern Irish designer JW Anderson’s collection this season was characterized by a new sensibility, rooted in reality rather than artistic innovation. Anderson responded to customers’ desire for less frills and more wearable clothing with humor and authenticity. Featuring oversized belted trench coats and bomber jackets, the collection presented a balanced mix of individuality and practicality.
Zegna
Creative director Alessandro Sartori’s minimalist concept has breathed new life into Italian menswear specialist Zegna, refining its classic roots with precision. The clean and body-hugging collection presents a complete clothing system with versatile pieces that promote freedom and ease. Some may have found the cuts too sharp, but the sophisticated combination of wool and cashmere pieces showed the brand’s commitment to modernity and tradition.
Giorgio Armani
Even in his ninetieth decade, Italian designer Giorgio Armanis’ mastery of gentle tailoring remains the cornerstone of his brand. This season the proportions and silhouette have been relaxed, with soft, unstructured shoulders and a relaxed fit predominating. The collection’s discreet luxury, characterized by subtle textures and high-quality fabrics, exemplifies Armani’s consistent balance between contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring.
Setchu
The Japanese designer and winner of the LVMH Prize 2023 With his fashion label Setchu, Satoshi Kuwata presented a new take on contemporary elegance, based on his experience in London’s Savile Row men’s tailoring. The collection showcased sophistication without being overly formal, with pieces that could be put together seamlessly with zippers and layers.
DSquared2
DSquared2, the label of Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten, brought their signature supercharged energy to Milan Fashion Week. While the show often overshadows the depth of the collections, the models were shown moving glamorously from side to side on a futuristic pod. Dean Caten’s performance in full regalia to British singer George Michael’s ‘Freedom 90’ song added a touch of humor to the lively presentation.
Fendi
Men’s creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi described her collection as a juxtaposition of city and country, emphasizing the dialogue between urban and rustic elements, tradition and technology. Outerwear includes blouson jackets and peacoats made from wool blankets, shearling and soft leather. The Italian fashion house presented innovative collaborations, including a portable speaker and a reinterpretation of the Peekaboo bag, highlighting the brand’s commitment to connecting past and present.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Heide Halama.