MILAN (dpa-AFX) – A turning point at Gucci: With his debut collection, the new creative director Sabato De Sarno pulverized everything the brand has stood for in recent years. He replaced the imaginative maximalism of his predecessor with a cool, sexy purism. This was experienced on Friday afternoon at Milan Fashion Week, where the spring/summer 2024 women’s collections will be presented until Monday. Kering shares rose sharply on Friday.
Things got off to a really bad start for the new guy. Instead of parading on the streets of Milan’s bohemian Brera district as planned, the weather forecast forced him to move to the Gucci headquarters at the other end of the city at short notice.
There, Sabato De Sarno sent his models through the hall on impressive platform soles. They also wore ultra-short minis and hot pants with bandeau tops, hoodies or knitted sweaters or very elegant blazers with wide lapels. Some tops open with a deep V almost to the belly button, others are reminiscent of undershirts. Long coats alternate with pea coats. Leather characterizes the collection from the day to the evening theme, for example in combination with lace for short lingerie-style dresses.
Sabato De Sarno came to Gucci with a wealth of experience in luxury fashion. He designed for Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and most recently for Valentino, without, however, having held the brand-defining role of creative director.
His predecessor Alessandro Michele had given Gucci a new identity with a gender-neutral orientation overflowing with references and created a worldwide hype. But recently the luxury group Kering, as the owner of the brand, was dissatisfied with the sales development. Michele did not want to be responsible for a required realignment of fashion. There was a separation.
Now Sabato De Sarno should take care of it. In many ways, his debut was reminiscent of another successful designer in Gucci history. Tom Ford (Ford Motor) shaped an entire era with his cool sexiness from 1994 to 2004.
De Sarno chose “Ancora” as the name for his collection – in German, yet, again. “I want people to fall in love with Gucci again,” he explained in an interview with Vogue magazine. Days before the show, the lettering was emblazoned on advertising banners and house walls around the world. A tram carried him through Milan.
This weekend, even more top-class Italian fashion stars, including Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, will be presenting at Milan Fashion Week./axb/DP/jha
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