Nonot just fashion. As always on make up trends are also defined on the catwalks of Milan Fashion Week 2024/25 of next season. Which, since the first fashion shows, marks the triumph of a marked luminosity of the skin, presenting brand new interpretations of the nude look. For next winter, make-up is elegant, essential and minimal, very natural but with flashes of impactful colour, passing through pastel shades. For make-up that radiates light and entertains.
Milan Fashion Week FW 2024/25, make up trends
1) Luminous nude make-up by Prada, Fendi, Alberta Ferretti
There is a desire for light and brightness in this historical moment. Which translates into a full winter natural faces, but only in appearance. The nude make upnow inevitable for several seasons.
Bright and essential in their purity, the make-ups from Fendi and Alberta Ferretti. The nude of Peter Philips for Fendi hides every imperfection under one base that illuminates the forehead, cheekbones, Cupid’s bow and lips dotted with a veil of gloss which captures the light in the center of the mouth. A very thin line of black eyeliner, very similar to the tips of the arrows, is the only graphic detail, sometimes imperceptible, allowed.
The makeup is equally minimal Alberta Ferretti which emphasizes the naked face with Flesh-colored blushes that sculpt the cheekbones and a very soft veil of gloss natural on the lips. The essence of femininity.
From left, Alberta Ferretti, Prada, Max Mara fashion shows (getty Images)
Nude that triumphs at Prada, amidst the bon ton atmospheres of the fifties. THEmake-up? Clean, almost severe, if it weren’t for those light strokes of pink blush. A‘another interpretation of nude, which becomes “creamy”, according to Lynsey Alexander, Global creative Makeup Artist Prada Beauty. For the occasion the make up artist used the Prada Balm for a diffused shine on the cheeks applied over the Prada Reveal Foundation to obtain a uniform and soft matte finish. For an extra glow, a drop on the cheekbones of The Serum.
The bon ton effect was also accentuated by the new ones Prada Monochrome Lipcolor Nude, the shades chosen are P159 Nude and B13 Brown, obtaining a finish that enhances all skin tones. There new collection of nude lipsticks includes hyper matte and soft matte versions: the first is inspired by the brand’s saffiano leather and contains a touch of black to give depth to the lips, the second by re-nylon and contains white to illuminate the mouth.
… And “luxury” nude also at Max Mara and N°21
Neutral colors, inspired by the earth and focus on the eyebrows. From Max Mara and N°21 even beauty, after fashion, becomes quiet luxury: on the catwalk of the Emilian brand, makeup is characterized by a skin as soft and velvety as the finest fabrics thanks to make-up that blends in completely. The accent is placed on the eyebrow arches, perfectly natural, combed without being gelled, while an almost imperceptible veil of blush colors the cheeks. Effortlessly sophisticated.
«The key words for this look are: essential, finesse, purity. The idea is to enhance the beauty of every woman by creating very subtle contrasts» declares Karim Rahman, make up artist of Kiko Milano who took care of make up N°21. The nude effect emphasizes neutral colors and tones inspired by earth and nature: «The skin is perfected with Daily Protection BB Cream SPF30 which creates a velvety second skin effect and gives a natural complexion. On the lips a mix of Green Me Matte Lipstick 100 And Smart Lipstick 405 patted together to recreate a very light shade with nude pink undertones. To complete the look, a touch of gloss effect for a naturally hydrated appearance thanks to the 3D Hydra Lip Gloss 01» they explain from backstage.
2) Dark reds on the lips, from Etro to Moschino
On a very luminous and very natural base, flashes of color emerge, especially the dramatic reds on the lips. It’s the make-up seen on the catwalk of Etro that it imposes fluorescent and vitamin shades in the middle of winter. Luciano Chiarello, Creative Director Make Up Artist together with Maurizio Calabrò, Lead Make Up Artist Italy of Nars, was inspired by the collection for a makeup with a glossy effect rich in details.
The focus is the lipstick: not a simple red but a set of three shades blended together for an intense and full effect. «For the occasion we defined the lips with pencil Powermatte High-Intensity Lip Pencil in the shade “Cruella” and then they were filled with the Powermatte Lip Pigment in the shades “Under my thumb” and “Rock with you” blended together for an intense and vibrant result” they explain from backstage. But the flashes are also aimed at gaze illuminated by flashes of glossy colouran effect obtained thanks toAfterglow Lip Shine in the “Triple X” shade.
From left, lipsticks from Moschino (Mac Cosmetics makeup) and Etro (NARS makeup)
The reds also protagonists from Moschino, for the debut of the creative direction of Adrian Appiolaza. The distinctive features of the historic beauty look of the most irreverent Italian brand have been reinterpreted by Inge Grognard, key artist for Mac Cosmetics. New ones were chosen for the lips Silky Matte Lipstick in “Russian Red” and “Ruby Woo” by Mac Cosmetics, blended at the corners of the mouth to remove precision.
3) The new smokey eyes, “artfully done”, from Roberto Cavalli to Moschino and Gucci
From Roberto Cavalli dark shades are the protagonists. The the look becomes languid with earthy tones, from dove gray to bronze to greige bordered by thick lines of soft kajal. For modern winter sirens.
Revisited, or rather “undone”, black eyeliner and smokey eye are also on the catwalk at Moschinoalways for the make up direction of Inge Grognard, key artist for Mac Cosmetics. Smudged, smudged, the eyeliner interrupted for a stretch on the tail. The smoky eyes are slightly dirty. “Imperfection is the key”.
What make-up artists do with eyeliner is a game of hatching, interpretations and re-interpretations. From Moschio’s smudge stroke to the millimetric one of Gucci. In fact, on Sabato de Sarno’s catwalk the eyeliner line, black ça sans dire, is more precise. Thick enough, it is drawn on both the upper and lower lash lines. Single graphic line on a contemporary and clean faceilluminated by a glow effect that doubles thanks also to the sleek hair.
Gucci’s minimal make-up (Getty Images)
4) Goth touches, by Antonio Marras
Inspired by the figure of Eleonora d’Arborea, a judge who lived between the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries who developed the first Sardinian civil code, the collection and make up by Antonio Marras have medieval references. And here one of the most spectacular make-ups seen so far on the Milanese catwalks is on show, signed by the make-up artist Riccardo Morandin: decorated faces with words in Gothic font.
The face is thus transformed into a perfect canvas on which the eyebrows are eliminated and the lips are left bare for a diaphanous and angelic effect, obtained thanks to the highlighter applied all over the face. To act as a contrast very sinuous lines of double drop eyelinerdrawn in the internal corner of the eye and on the external one that extends almost to the temples.
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