Classic, elegant and with a touch of punk: This is how the Fendi woman should present herself in autumn/winter 2023/24. The show by the Roman luxury label on Wednesday afternoon was the first highlight of the Milan Fashion Week, which ran until Monday, with the latest creations from the Italian designer elite.
Kim Jones, the artistic director of Fendi’s women’s segment, was inspired for this collection by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a scion of the fashion dynasty who works as a jewelery designer. “There is a lot of chic, but also a lot of stubbornness in her way of wearing Fendi. And I love that,” he is quoted as saying in the press release accompanying the collection.
Visually, Kim Jones focused on neutral, calm colors, which he mostly brought to the catwalk in tone-on-tone combinations. Again and again he cleverly deconstructs garments and forms. For example, a kilt is worn over trousers, the sensuous tube dress has sporty polo details, and a classic suit waistcoat has sleeve fragments. Here and there, frivolous accents from lingerie mix with elements from the men’s wardrobe. Subtle punk influences emerge in bohemian knit tops.
Kim Jones has been responsible for Fendi’s women’s collection for two and a half years. He succeeded Karl Lagerfeld, who held the position for 54 years until his death in February 2019. As a tribute to him, Jones reinterpreted some of Lagerfeld’s graphic patterns and color arrangements from the 1980s and 1990s.
The official program of Milan Fashion Week includes around 175 events, including almost 60 major shows. Almost all the big names in Italian fashion are there. In the coming days, Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, among others, will be showing their latest women’s collections. (dpa)