THEl fourth day of Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2023, September 24, is dedicated to the return to the origins. A revival air is breathed in the Saturday fashion shows, the penultimate appointment with the MFW: to conquer the city and the scene, the landing of Kim Kardashian from Dolce & Gabbana as a stylist, with a collection that reinterprets the Maison’s archive. The celebrations for the 70 years of Moncler they pass by Piazza del Duomo, with an emotional show open to the public. And if on the one hand the path of Matthieu Blazy from Bottega Veneta continues to amaze, the new generation of Bally And Salvatore Ferragamo demonstrate familiarity with heritage.
Hi Kim
There are those who appear by surprise (see Paris Hilton at Versace) and those who prepare the ascent. How Kim Kardashianwhose arrival in Milan for Dolce & Gabbana has been announced since the early days of MFW with video teasers and targeted images – not to mention the designer wedding of her sister Kourtney in Portofino in May 2022.
Hi Kimand Milan is in turmoil: but if this was to be expected, with crowds of onlookers outside the brand’s outposts, no one could imagine the star in the role of a meticulous archival designer. In fact, the fashion show of the Maison at the Metropol sees not only the entire clan take the field in the front row and Kim Kardashian at the end of the catwalk with the long dress duo of black crystals covered, but above all a roundup of looks from the archives of the 1990s and 2000s reinterpreted by the diva together with the stylists and marked by a special tag with the actual year of birth.
Kim Kardashian with Stefano Dolce and Domenico Gabbana at the end of the show (Photo: Dolce & Gabbana).
Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring-Summer 2023 line is thus transformed into a fascinating reinterpretation of the vast codes of the Maison, with a touch of a modern diva: the long classic 1997-98 sheath dress is worn with long second skin gloves, the tuxedo suit with the Nineties tie turns into blazer dress, 2000s slim fit jeans dress in black lace and are worn with a shiny bodysuit with crystal covered boning.
The most sparkling is herin the role of curator of a special collectionwhose purpose is to enhance the legacy of the Italian brand and at the same time female beauty. Successful goal.
One of the archive dresses reinterpreted by Kim Kardashian on the catwalk (Photo: Imaxtree).
How are you? All good from Bottega Veneta
We are all different. A bit like the 400 resin-soaked cotton canvas chairs designed by Gaetano Pesce and the colored floor that adorn the location of the Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show of Bottega Veneta. The installation How are you? it is the refined and classy artistic touch (the works will be offered for sale by the Maison) that hovers over the new proof of Matthieu Blazy at the helm of the brand. A confirmation of style, enclosed in a few and selected details: the jeans-effect coated leather, the big shirts with the checked pattern (and worn on the catwalk by Kate Moss), the long and precious fringes that give movement, the foam effect knitwear.
Kate Moss on the Bottega Veneta SS23 catwalk (Photo: Imaxtree).
A luxurious wardrobe with an everyday charm, the secret of its success, which passes as always from the accessories sector, made even more desirable thanks to the new revival of archival models that focus everything on the intertwined, must of the brand.
The new course of Salvatore Ferragamo, Bally and Trussardi
Whoever leaves the old way for the new one knows what he is leaving and does not know what he finds. The motto sounds like a warning every time a new designer debuts at the helm of brands with a very long history. The case of Salvatore Ferragamowhich at MFW presents the first line signed by Maximilian Davis in the context of the Former Archiepiscopal Seminary, soon Portrait Milano. Rihanna’s beloved black stylist dusts offit was more Hollywood than the brand, looking at the beginning of Salvatore’s path. The new Hollywood Ferragamo 2022? Demonstrates a fresh approach to wardrobe and accessories: flashes of Ferragamo lacquer red, crystals reminiscent of the sparkle of red shoes created in 1959 for Marilyn Monroe and fetish touches illuminate the leather, knitwear, draped dresses, making them contemporary. The mythical Wanda bag, born in 1988, is reinterpreted with new proportions. “I went through the archive and chose what could be redefined to become relevant in the present,” comments the designer.
A look by Salvatore Ferragamo SS23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
The 26-year-old British designer is not alone in taking his first steps on day 4 of Milan Fashion Week 2022. Also Bally welcomes the new creative director Rhuigi Villasenorformer founder and CEO of the Rhude brand since 2015. For his debut, the designer interprets heritage with a an unprecedented, hyper-glamorous lookfrom the front row of stars led by Mahmood And Ariana Grande on the catwalk focused on total denim look, wraparound knit dresses, suede trousers, dressing gowns and pajama sets. The mood is rock and non-conformist, and marks a turning point in the very long history of the Swiss brand, born in 1851.
Joan Smalls walks for Bally SS23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
Instead, continue the path of Benjamin A. Huseby & Serhat Işık driving Trussardi: the second collection signed by the duo immediately appears more aware. The merit of the reinterpretation and research work that brings a touch of magic to the Maison’s renovation: at Palazzo Clerici a woman parading through her wardrobe includes utility contaminations, shiny leather and slip dresses. Minimal and daring at the same time.
A close-up of the Trussardi PE23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
Moncler, the return of Maya
70 years old of Moncler down jackets. An anniversary that Remo Ruffini’s Maison, despite the bad weather, could only celebrate in a big way with an event open to the public, Extraordiinary Forever, in the most loved square of Milan, that of the Duomo. The live performance, inaugurated by the prima ballerina of the Teatro alla Scala Virna Toppi, unveiled an exceptional cast composed of 1952 talents. A tribute to the very year of Moncler’s foundation, as well as to the legendary one jacket of the paninarithat Maya that those born in the Eighties still have in the closet.
Moncler’s Extraordinary Forever show in Piazza del Duomo (Photo: Moncler).
The reinterpretation, a shiny optic white bomber jacket with a new and old logo, which has conquered the spotlight worn by 700 dancers, 200 musicians, 100 choristers and 952 models. After the performance, a shower, this time fake, of white confetti. To applaud them, in addition to the crowd gathered around Piazza del Duomo, the Italian actress Matilde Gioli and the rapper Pharrell Williams.
The confirmations of Jil Sander, Ermanno Scervino and Msgm
In a garden built in a field between Novegro and Linate, in the rain, the parade of Jil Sander. The models with the umbrella of Lucie and Luke Meierled by Bella Hadid, bring to the stage a wardrobe of contrasts and fusions, of archetypes and novelties, which looks to the warm and Californian atmospheres. The leaden sky helps to make the pieces of the collection stand out, studied and tailored as always but more colorful than usual, thanks to touches of lilac, peach, blue and lime. The minimal wardrobe lights up thanks to small crystals, rough cuts and cut-outs. Wearable deconstructions with a rigorous and refined design: yet another confirmation of good taste.
A detail of Jil Sander PE23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
Back to make people dream too Ermanno Scervino, with a Spring-Summer 2023 collection that is a hymn to beauty. For the season, the designer expands his horizons with new shades combined with traditional black and white, embracing candy pink, citrine yellow and blue. The protagonists of a women’s wardrobe that ranges more and more between bustier dresses in leather, maxi nylon bomber jackets, decorated knitwear, rose embroidery and micro sequins.
A look by Ermanno Scervino SS23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
Romantic with style, like the latest proof of Msgmpoetic and at the same time ironic. Forever, Always, Forever Massimo Giorgetti’s woman captures for the simplicity with which she wears every variant of the wardrobe, from the halter jumpsuit to the micro dress, from Parisian to tattered denim. The seasonal obsession, the protection payment from femme fatale.
A look of MSGM PE23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
The seasonal obsession, the protection payment from femme fatale.
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