THEThe third day of Milan Fashion Week, 22 September 2023, once again features – it must be said – the fashion show Gucciwith the highly anticipated debut of creative director Sabato De Sarno. Versacefor its part, captures the scene at dusk, with the arrival on the catwalk of Gigi Hadid And Claudia Schiffer.
A stage of the MFW that goes down in history: between new courses and reappearances, here is everything that happened in day 3 of the Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024.
Gucci, Again
From the last change of location due to weather – from the streets of Brera to the Gucci Hub – to the pre-show roundup of the Instagram account, up to the claim-refrain Still. The debut of Saturday De Sarno it will certainly be remembered as among the most talked about – or rather, hummed – in history. If on the one hand the expectations regarding the fashion show Gucci they were very high, on the other hand no one really knew what to expect, after the farewell of Alessandro Michele. On stage, a collection very different from those designed by his predecessor: more immediate, less intellectual. Made of a few simple and wearable pieces, reiterated in different styles. Specifically, micro shorts with or without logo, thin tank tops, maxi vests, jeweled bras, hoodies, skirts with slit in glossy leather, knit polo shirts, boyfriend jeans. In addition, i moccasins platforms with a clamp, chain jewels (those from the viral campaign with Daria Werbowy) and the Maison’s It Bags that need no introduction, dressed to the nines thanks to crystal applications.
The first look of the Gucci SS24 fashion show (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
In words of the designer entrusted to the press release, the collection of the Gucci Spring-Summer 2024 fashion show is «a story that comes from the joy of living [… ] a story of objects – shiny, cold to the touch but warm in the soul and heart. Attractive and collectible, not for a museum, but to be worn in everyday life.” In facta list of must-haves destined to end up on the wishlist of all the most incurable fashion addicts of the brand. Again, again, againas Mina sings in the background.
In the Tod’s Factory
They are the Scala Ansaldo Laboratories, where the scenography of the Teatro alla Scalathe magical place chosen by Tod’s to present the Spring-Summer 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week. What better way to celebrate the Made in Italy, if not by bringing the behind-the-scenes of the Premiere scheduled for December 7th into the spotlight? Even the line, titled Factory, is a return to construction, to the origin. Natural tones such as khaki, beige and terracotta are brightened by acidic tips of lime. Industrious, i tailored waistcoats which are also worn as tops, as well as shirtdresses that mimic work aprons. The belt multipocket as a craftsman it encircles the waist, and rests on crochet-effect knitwear in contrasting colours.
A look from Tod’s SS24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
THE gloves protectors are transformed into stylish accessories, like shoes and bags. And nappa infects clothing and accessories, in a coming and going of weaves. Finally, the designer Walter Chiapponivisibly moved, he bids farewell to the public before leaving. An essential testament.
Versace’s top dolls
Everyone wondered where it had gone Gigi Hadid this fashion month. And here she appears, in good company – among Kendall Jenner And Claudia Schiffer – at the fashion show Versace. The return of the tops, this time, does not run on the edge of sexyness. The Versace woman rediscovers herself doll, more than diva: in her wardrobe, a slew of pastel tweed suits, sleeveless micro sheath dresses edged with stones, bon ton duster coats, embroidered knitted twin-sets. And then chic hair accessories, ballerinas from étoile in satin and handbags that mimic small satchels.
Claudia Schiffer for Versace SS24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
A reference to the past, upon closer inspection there is: the recurring motif a chessa pattern that dates back to the collection Spring-Summer 1982. Exceptional Harlequin, the top of the tops, the German supermodel who at 53 years old still steals the show – and wears the most sensual and eccentric creation to close the fashion show, a lingerie dress in lace and crystals. She is second only to Donatella.
Sportmax, blank sheet
Total white. The woman’s wardrobe Sportmax for Spring-Summer 2024 explore all the nuances of white, from optician to cream, from vanilla to cotton candy. A purity of tone reflected by a simplicity of lines, by the rigor of the constructions. The same as the oriental garden that forms the backdrop to the scene: A Gardener’s Balladthe name of the collection that mixes nature and artifice.
A look at Sportmax SS24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
On the one hand the flowers that stand out on the Japanese-inspired sheath dresses and satin skirts, on the other the details of the padded and curved shoulder straps, which evoke atmospheres sci-fi. The accessories are in line, with handbags curved like spaceships, boot sandals and laboratory goggles. At the end the colors appear, from orange to pale pink to mint green; and new shapes come to life from organza. Chain reaction.
The college style according to MSGM
What is more changeable than art? Maybe, just the climate. Between clear spells and thunderstorms, MSGM relocates the parade initially planned between the buildings designed by Gio Ponti on the Polytechnic campus in the aseptic room in via Piranesi, but does not lose the original inspiration. One on the catwalk young, changeable woman on the clouds. The tartan graphic designer, already experimented in the past, becomes a signature for Massimo Giorgettiand lands on balloon mini dresses, deconstructed blazers, knotted tops.
A look from MSGM SS24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The college inspiration remains central, underlined by the ribbed knee-length socks, worn with strappy sandals or punctuated by small ruffles, and by the Polo shirt striped rugby. The cascading applications, such as multicolored confetti (inspired by One Hundred Letters of the architect), punctuate the short suits, rigorous in line, lively in mood. A totally glamorous design line.
From Sunnei to Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini to Boss
Votes for the look. From Sunnei it is the public, complete with a paddle, that decides who wins in style – and, at least according to the numbers, the opinions collected are among the most diverse. Unquestionable, the change of direction of Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafiniwhich for next season is focusing on a surprisingly delicate and subtle, hyper-romantic wardrobe.
At all empowerment the parade closes on day 3 Techtopia Of Bossopened at a brisk pace in a pinstriped suit by the top model once again in her career, Gigi Hadid.
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