THEThe third day of Milan Fashion Week 2023 sees the fashion show by Guccithe latest signed by the style office awaiting the arrival of the new creative director who will debut with next September’s fashion week, Sabato Di Sarno.
It opens with Tod’s and closes with Jil Sander: in between, the Fall Winter 2023/2024 fashion shows by Sportmax And Philosophy of Lorenzo Serafinibut also the catwalk tests of the younger names but already on the crest of the wave, from Andreadam to Sunnei.
Gucci’s family lexicon
A Maison that has seen so many creative directors take turns cannot but possess a rich genetic heritage: the DNA of Gucci consists of different nucleotides. And on the catwalk of the fashion show at Milan Fashion Week 2023 they all stand out, very clearly. In the Gucci hub, home of the brand, memories come to life, from the 90s to the 2010s, up to the present day. So here are the sexy creations on the catwalk a la Tom Ford, like the GG crystal micro bra worn on the pencil skirt that opens the fashion show; the faux fur coats worn with colored sheer stockings, but also the black lace dresses, references to the latest collections of the former creative director Alessandro Michele; small flowers and bouquet details embroidered on light and feminine shirts recall the Giannini era.
A look by Gucci FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The personalities of the components fade and mix together in the name of generational exchange, and what prevails in the end is above all the logoalways the same since 1933. Right there dd created by founder Guccio Gucci stands out against a softer Jackie in construction, while the snow boots, originally made for the 1960s ski collection, are re-proposed with lots of clamps and the belts with maxi buckle. A collection that is an album of memories, familiar and evocative. Everything to browse, waiting to start filling a new one.
Dress well, the Tod’s formula
Is there a magic formula for always dressing well? If the certainties are not of this world, the key is to be found in that of Tod’s. Italian Feeling is the title of the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 collection designed by Walter Chiapponi which explores everything, absolutely everything, the wardrobe, with equally refined and contemporary proposals. The parka coexists on the catwalk with the peacoat, and has leather-covered buttons that recall the iconic rubber pads. The cut of the sheepskin is similar to that of the blazer dress, the overalls alternate with office workwear. The classic one-button suit but also the pinstripe and masculine one are worn with flats, revisited for the occasion with soles Bubble, laces and/or shearling; and the D Bag it is increasingly unstructured.
A look from Tod’s FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
A formula that works in each of its pieces, thanks to its refined appearance and functional substance. Identity and savoir faire are programmatic, e the common feeling is an underlying elegancelike that of the last release that sees the protagonist Laetitia Casta – objective beauty.
Jil Sander’s comfort zone
The background is All Neon Like by Bjork, and the looks from the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 collection also glow in the dark, just like the song goes. At the same time, they sound cozy and cocoon, like the seats covered in duvet: on one side the inspiration, on the other the comfort zone of Luke and Lucie Meierthat for Jil Sander re-propose their highlights with new accents. The floral print or 3D sequined dress, the maxi t-shirt with a cherries graphic, the structured and soft balloons like clouds, the disproportionate zebra stripes that cover the XXL shoulder bags. Suits and maxi coats for him and her acid colorsenhanced by chunky necklaces and notable earrings – after all, jewels have always been a strong point of the Maison.
A look by Jil Sander FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The highly studied styling passes through snug balaclavas and remixes of materials, from leather to technical fabric. Headlights in the night, driving straight home: a wardrobe that goes on the safe side.
Sportmax gets naked
The collection Sportmax for Autumn-Winter 2023/24 it starts from the reinterpretation of the works of Peter Hujar, Robert Mapplethorpe and Nan Goldin. Studies on the nude by artists and photographers inspire the collection which is meant to be a hymn to origins, to a sort of primordiality. coffins, starting from the title and the predominant color, the meat which passes from leather to solid color ensembles, in an androgynous key. To get naked it is not necessary to uncover, the suits with defined shoulders, wide-leg trousers and straight knee-length skirts seem to suggest. The message is accentuated with bold layering and shiny and transparent silhouettes, such as those of knotted dresses and tops with very long fringes.
A detail of Sportmax AI23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Simple and loaded, a free wardrobe that exposes what is most intimate, one’s own personality. Just like in an author’s shot.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, games of seduction
Slits on the sides, illusion lace, bardot necklines designed by zips, sensual cut-outs and flocks on the back. Lorenzo Serafini’s woman for the next cold season goes in search of her own femininity, symbolized by a flower, an essential accessory. The touch is glossy for the skin, the jersey is more fluid than ever. Classic tailoring blends with stretch tulle and corsetry. Here too, the non-skin color is the master, but there is no shortage of accents fire red, to underline the seductive idea – made more immediate by very high leather cuissardes. To like each other for pleasure: the secret, he seems to suggest, is to be daring.
A look by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Sunnei’s leap into the void
An experience, more than a fashion show. Always the cultural container of Sunnei aims at the fashion show as a meeting point, putting the viewer at the centre. And this time she does it by literally throwing models to the crowd. Unsuspecting patrons and professionals capable of keeping them up mingle in the concert parterre, and share that free sensation of throwing themselves into the void. After all, what always saves itself (and saves us), is the wardrobe, which for Fall-Winter 2023/2024 becomes full and comforting, exploring the colors of the rainbow and playing with an unprecedented fur stitch. Spherical jewels filled with liquids and shoes 1000 nails they enhance the knit ensembles and wide trousers. Certainties, denim and maxi stripesnow solid background.
From Vivetta to Andreaadamo
The watercolor dresses of Luke Lindriving solo by ACT No. 1 after splitting from co-founder Galib Gassanoff, who help women injured by acid. Diversity from another point of view: a theme always dear to Cormiumwho plays soccer with his heterogeneous team, who combines cleats with sequined dresses.
A look by Vivetta FW23/24 (Spotlight Launchmmetrics).
Andrew Adam is inspired by his Crotone, and restarts from the earth with an effective wardrobe craquelé. AND Vivetta revives the sixties more romantic and mischievous, thanks to slip dresses and perforated stockings, cut-outs, bows, mini lengths.
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